
We’re sitting in a small boat, bobbing on the swell of the Southern Ocean, when we get the nod. Six of us in pull on our goggles and snorkels then step to the boat’s edge and down into the water, still chilly despite our 5mm wetsuits. The skipper points towards the edge of the bay and we see them – about half a dozen dolphin fins heading our way.
Before this trip there would have been few things to entice me into the Southern Ocean, which surely brings the word “shark” to mind for most non-Australians, but this is one of them. It’s the culmination of a five-night trip through a region home to striking scenery, exhilarating wildlife experiences and exquisite seafood too – often with barely another person in sight.