“Biryani was always made for big celebratory occasions,” says chef Asma Khan, author of Ammu – a cookbook dedicated to her mother.
“This is also usually the last dish I eat at home before I make the five-hour car journey from my parents’ home to the airport to catch my flight to London. I always felt that layered in that biryani were things my mother couldn’t say. When the biryani arrived on the table, it felt like Ammu’s secret code, telling me that she loved me.”
