Ashford Castle is one of the most stunning hotels in Ireland, with all the Irish warmth and charm you could hope for. Opulent interiors, bags of history and a smorgasbord of outdoor adventures make this a top option for a luxury long weekend.
Where is it?
At the gateway to the craggy and spectacular Connemara National Park, Ashford Castle greedily straddles two counties — County Mayo and County Galway — which are divided by the River Cong. The 800-year-old castle sits among manicured gardens on the Galway side on the dark shores of the magnificent Lough Corrib while its golf course and patisserie take up space across the bridge in County Mayo. It’s an hour-and-a-half drive from Shannon airport or three hours from Dublin. Easy for time-poor Londoners.
Style
South African hoteliers the Tollman family have spent £70 million and two years meticulously upgrading the 82-room castle — but, to look at it, you’d think it would have cost more. It’s a masterpiece. Murano glass chandeliers sit alongside handmade Donegal crystal fittings, original wooden fireplaces roar and a stylish marriage of antique and local artworks line the walls. Leather-bound books are stacked on shelves and fabrics clash in that elegant way only the best interior designers can master.
From the recently acquired and proudly displayed auction pieces to the VIP photos in the endearing hall of fame (everyone from Brad Pitt to Sharon Stone has holidayed here), every nook and cranny has a story. Ashford Castle is sumptuous but it’s the warmth of the Irish hospitality and pride of place that makes this a special stay. Take one of the history tours for a walk through the various stages and reincarnations of the castle which was famously the Guiness family’s showpiece hunting lodge used to impress royalty and high society in the 1800s.
Food & drink
Expect big things from breakfast at Ashford Castle. Aside from the enveloping warm welcome as you enter the George V restaurant - the enthusiasm of the staff will invigorate even the most bleary-eyed - the juice sommelier is a fun touch serving clever concoctions and more booze than I’ve seen before 8:30am in a while. Be sure to ask for a slice of the traditional slow cooked ham from the trolly - it’s exceptional. The two-course a la carte menu will cater to everyone with Irish and modern classics. I ordered poached spiced plums, local organic smoked salmon and organic goats cheese with flat mushrooms on repeat.
Grab a light bite - oysters and a glass of oaked chardonnay - in the Drawing Room at lunch and then it’s back to George V come nightfall for the main event (after cocktails in the Prince of Wales bar). Relatively new executive head chef Liam Finnegan is doing magical things at Ashford Castle and we didn’t have a dud meal there.
Afternoon tea is served in The Connaught Room under a spectacular Donegal crystal chandelier. Head to nine-seat, American diner-style Stanley’s for some wellness bites after your spa treatment.
Something unique awaits at Squire’s Danagher. Ashford Castle is obsessively proud that 1952 film The Quiet Man was filmed in and around the estate. Squire’s Danagher is the original cottage from the film lovingly remodelled into a traditional 1950s cottage where guests can organise a private dinner for ten with traditional entertainment - Irish dancing and traditional concertina. Book a wine tasting session in the gothic wine cellars if you have time.
Facilities
Where to begin. A falconry session with the beautiful Harris hawks is a highlight. Wrap up warm for a serene boat cruise on Lough Corrib, where brothers Patrick and David Luskin will give you a full and entertaining history of the area. Clay pigeon shooting, horse riding, archery, tennis, golf and hiking around the 365 acres are all on the agenda too, should you wish. Guests love the early morning walk with the hotel’s resident Irish wolfhounds which reach 7 ft tall on their hind legs.
To recover from the exertion, book into the spa for an Elemis or Natural Bisse facial. The spa - designed by French architect Philippe Bonino - is a work of art and the small pool (for which you have to book a slot) is framed by showstopper mural The Tree of Life by South African ceramic artist Jane du Rand.
This spring, the castle will open a new wellness and leisure centre Éalú complete with state-of-the-art fitness gyms, personal trainers and a fifteen-metre pool for those serious about fitness.
Elsewhere, the multi-million pound makeover added a cinema (a particularly lovely way to spend an evening), billiards room and children’s game room.
Extracurricular
Ashford Castle is particularly proud of its new Meet the Makers itineraries. Lovingly tailormade by the charming Eoin Warner, a nature enthusiast and documentary-maker, each outing is curated specifically to the individual guest’s interests and aims to show visitors the real side of Ireland. It also offers local artisans additional income streams. One trip might involve seashore foraging and mucking in at a local oyster farm, another will take in cheese-making and beekeeping. Itineraries are completely bespoke and offer well-travelled guests the chance to see a more authentic side of the area.
Which room?
All rooms come with complimentary Jack Murphy coats and Barbour wellies - should you find yourself without enough room in your suitcase for country apparel. The famous Irish hospitality comes through with all the little extras: thoughtful gifts at turndown, a complimentary decanter of port, the free minibar.
The best - and most expensive - rooms are the Reagan and Kennedy Suites with their priceless antiques, four poster beds and expansive views of the lough. But they come at a price. The standard rooms too are lavishly decorated - more is more and there is no such thing as too much clashing as drapes, wallpapers and carpets compete for the most ostentatious. Somehow it works.
A short walk along the shores of the lough and in its own gated chunk of the garden is the Hideaway Lodge. A former boat house with its own access to the lake and private everything. Hole up here, lollop in the marble tub and gaze out on your very own stretch of perfection without seeing another soul.
Best for…
Honeymooners, couples, friends, families, A-listers — everyone’s welcome but no one will want to leave.
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