Soft serve always feels like a special occasion. While I can open a pint of Ben & Jerry’s any old time, fresh soft serve conjures memories of childhood visits to TCBY and the McDonalds drive through. As an adult in New York, I now associate it with my daughter’s squeals of excitement when she hears the Mister Softee truck jingling down the block. And as more of my peers pull back from alcohol, meeting a friend for a froyo and stroll has become a satisfying stand-in for happy hour.
Naturally I’m thrilled to see soft serve has enjoyed a renaissance, especially in my city. Last year, cronut creator Dominique Ansel made waves with soft serve dipped in French butter. Soft serve margaritas took over TikTok this year. And if line culture is any indication of interest, soft serve spots like Culture and, in my neighborhood, Lisbonata, now draw round-the-block throngs of treat seekers.