The latest Armani Privé couture show proved that pearls never go out of style.
The autumn/winter 2024 show at Haute Couture Week in Paris continued creative director Giorgio Armani’s quest for calm throughout his collections.
His use of rippling metallics and dripping silhouettes transported the viewer to mother of pearl’s habitat.
With a total of 89 looks (equal to the designer’s age), the show experimented with the emblem of the pearl, beginning with trademark-Armani soft-cut suits, transitioning into velvet black with pearlescent accents catching the light, and finishing with shimmering champagne gowns that called to mind Roaring Twenties Italy.
Mostly paired with flats throughout, the looks prioritised timeless shapes but with modern attitudes, not to be compromised with steep stilettos or complicated strapping.
Armani retained a strict colour palette of black and white monochrome and slinky metallics, employing accents of embellishment and embroidery through pearls, beading and sequins. His most simple designs were showstoppers, such as a strapless silk dress with a pearl encrusted hem, dripping from the model making her look as though she had just risen from the Mediterranean sea.
Armani experimented with necklines, from traditional deep cut suits to square bodices covered in crystal beading. His use of excruciatingly precise yet effortlessly fluid lines evoked a tranquillity that rippled throughout the collection – both through fabric and tailoring.
There was a great sense of nostalgia to the collection. Armani himself is on the cusp of his 90th birthday in July, and it felt as though the designer was looking back at highlights of his career.
He employed retro aesthetics such as sharp padded shoulders, geometric blazers and kaleidoscopic gowns; the skirts and trousers had a vintage feel to them, with a Pierrot-like flounce.
The simple silhouettes and humble palette was a sharp departure from the label’s ostentatious spring/summer collection, but it made sense for the iconic designer, showing off the Armani spirit of old school glamour and Bond-esque drama.
