It may seem counterintuitive that something you apply to hair before washing can have any lasting or significant benefits. After all, you’re rinsing it down the drain and then shampooing hair clean, right? Surprisingly, when it comes to the best pre-shampoo treatments, there’s science to say otherwise.
That’s why, in the quest for better hair repair, strength and a soft, shiny finish, using one of the best hair masks or oils that has been specifically formulated to use before you shampoo and condition – what’s become known as 'pre-pooing' – is increasingly popular.
“Some pre-shampoo products scientifically make more of a difference to hair than post-shampoo conditioners or masks,” explains Tom Smith, one of the UK’s most renowned hairstylists and colour specialists, who has a particular passion for hair health. “The advanced science in these formulas means the mechanism of action takes place while the product is left on and before excess is washed away, with the benefits left inside the hair.
"At one time, the only options for repair were purely cosmetic and involved sticking ingredients to the surface to give the illusion of healthier hair," he continues. "Newer science, using ingredients of lower molecular weight can reach deeper, make fundamental changes to its structure that last through multiple washes.” Sound good? If you’re ready to join the pre-poo club, there’s a wealth of effective and easy-to-use picks at the ready – below are some of the best on the market for different hair concerns.
The best pre-shampoo treatments to shop now
Pre-shampoo treatments for damaged hair
For rough, worn-out hair that’s prone to breaking, formulas that repair and fortify are excellent. Look for pre-shampoos aimed at restoring broken hair strands and undoing damage caused by regular colouring, bleaching and heat styling.
RRP: £28
The at-home version of the bond-rebuilding salon treatment that revolutionised repairing haircare. Used weekly for at least 10 minutes – Kim Kardashian is reportedly a fan of leaving it on overnight – this treatment works on broken bonds inside the hair fibre to fix damage from root to tip, making lengths look and feel smoother as well as helping prevent more breakage.
RRP: £23
Beside fruit oils to seal in moisture and avocado oil to add restorative lipids, the star ingredient is a unique polymer that targets three types of hair bonds broken by bleaching or colouring. Not only does it repair, but it strengthens and protects too.
RRP: £12
Vegan squalane is deeply moisturising here, while keratin helps rebuild the strength of hair that’s fragile due to being over-processed and heat-styled. Expect less future snapping as well as deep nourishment from this lightweight but intensive treatment.
Pre-shampoo treatments for frizzy hair
Infusing as much moisture as possible into frazzled lengths is essential when it comes to fighting frizz. Pre-shampoo formulas that not only pump nourishment into the hair but help seal it in and protect against surfactants in shampoo that may suck moisture out are ideal.
RRP: £9.95
To protect dry hair against the dehydrating effects of washing, as well as lock moisture and nourishment into individual hair strands, a combination of strengthening amino acids, biotin and vitamin C creates a super protein that protects and conditions, while squalane boosts hair’s natural oils for a soft, supple result.
RRP: £38
Although technically an intensive leave-in conditioner, this smart formula doubles up for pre-wash too, giving more bang for your buck as well as excellent anti-frizz action. The rich blend of oils, flower and fruit extracts impart plenty of moisture as well as a smoothing, lightweight protective barrier.
RRP: £29
A beautifully nourishing trifecta of pink camellia, castor and jojoba oils creates a veil around frazzled lengths when applied to dry hair, which absorbs oil where wet hair would repel (think science 101). Leave it to soak in for up to 30 minutes to get the most intensive softening and moisturising benefits.
Pre-shampoo treatments for weak hair
You can opt for masks that tend to the most vulnerable areas of your lengths, or oils that feed the scalp to reinforce the strength of new hair growth as well as shoring up what’s already there. Either way, limp and fragile locks will benefit from pre-shampoo treatments aimed at achieving more fullness and improved health.
RRP: £38
Now 50 years old (and originally created for Audrey Hepburn), this is the OG of pre-shampoo treatments and ticks both strengthening and nourishing boxes. It’s applied to wet hair, as the star ingredients of lipid-rich castor and olive oils are in a water-based, occlusive mask that allows the benefits to be delivered directly into the hair cuticle with only the excess rinsed away.
RRP: £28
Caring for both the scalp and hair means the two work in tandem for stronger, healthier lengths. Massage into the scalp then smooth the excess through the lengths after 15 minutes before shampooing and the non-greasy formula will create a protective shield. This allows the star ingredient, smoothing, strengthening (and lighter than other oils) hemisqualane, to get to work.
RRP: £24
By gently cleansing the scalp while pumping it full of moisturising ingredients including castor oil and hyaluronic acid, hair is encouraged to grow stronger and shinier. Meanwhile, squalane, derived from olive oil, boosts the skin barrier of the scalp to help improve the health and elasticity of hair long term.
What are the benefits of pre-shampoo treatments?
So, what's the rationale behind using pre-shampoo treatments? “Shampoo and conditioner traditionally add molecules to the surface of the hair to make it tangle-free, more shiny and add thickness,” says Michael Douglas, who has been styling supermodels and celebrities for 35 years and whose virtual tutorials focus on educating women to get salon-worthy hair at home. “These molecules can cause a barrier on the surface of the hair. That barrier can have benefits, such as UV filters and heat protection, but can also make it hard for conditioning products to work well as they can't get to the hair.”
This is where a treatment that gets to work before you wash your hair can be beneficial. “A pre-shampoo treatment is a good way of doing that before hair gets bombarded with those post-shampoo type of molecules.” That means lotions, creams and oils uniquely formulated to ramp up repair and moisture levels that go beyond what your regular shampoo and conditioner will provide. And, as longer term hair will be in better condition, your favourite styling formulas – from the best hair thickening products to best hair products for humidity – will likely perform better, too.
Styling can also be easier after using one of these products. “In my experience of using a pre-shampoo treatment, hair feels easier to style due to it being less knotty,” enthuses Douglas. “I apply it to dry hair and comb through with a soft bristle brush, then leave for 10 minutes before rinsing and shampooing as normal, with no conditioner needed afterwards. After this process, I find styling the hair to be easier and the results are great.”
How often should you use a pre-shampoo treatment?
If your hair is extremely coarse or frizz-prone, there may be a benefit to using a pre-shampoo before most washes, advises Smith. Meanwhile, if you have high conditioning needs due to bleaching, frequent chemical treatments or excessive heat styling, every three wash days is a good habit. “For those whose hair condition needs are lower, or who need to wash their hair less frequently, once a fortnight may be enough,” he adds.
But should we all be pre-pooing? “For fine to medium hair that is uncoloured, rarely heat styled and [with no major concerns], pre-shampoo products may cause undesirable heaviness or build-up and may be unnecessary as a regular part of your routine,” says Smith.
