Another day, another scandal in the beauty industry, this time in the form of an article decrying hugely popular at-home LED face masks and questioning their efficacy. The report, published in The Times, is damning, the overarching theme being that LED masks only impact the “outer layer of the skin, rather than deeper down in the dermis.”
They claim that the only tech that can achieve the goal of penetrating into the dermis and therefore having an effect are low-level laser therapies (LLLT), before going on to reveal that the research uncovering this scandal was commissioned by a brand who make an LLLT. Shocker.
“A lot of brands rely on discrediting previous technologies and formulations in order to sell their products, and it’s an effective marketing strategy, commissioning studies to convince consumers that they have been ‘duped’,” Viola Levy, Brand Strategist and founder of Smart Beauty Creative, tells me.
She quickly adds that “that’s not to say these studies don’t have any merit (although one could argue that they are not entirely impartial).” It’s a shame both the article and the study weren’t able to employ Viola’s integrity, but let’s set that aside and take a deeper look at the veracity of the claims being made.
I first spoke to three of the most respected names behind LED masks, all of whom cited numerous studies that hadn’t been commissioned by their brands and are therefore worth heeding. “LED is well documented though multiple clinical studies showing significant results with red and blue light to help conditions including mild to moderate acne, wound healing, psoriasis, certain skin cancers, and skin rejuvenation,” said Dr. Maryam Zamani.
While Laura Ferguson, co-founder of The Light Salon told me that “there are thousands of studies proving that LED masks at home offer tangible results.” And Laurence Newman, CEO of CurrentBody said that “LED is a technology that has been trusted and proven through numerous independent clinical trials and studies over the past 60 years.”
Onto experts who work with skin and who recommend LED masks regularly. First, celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey, who’s “worked with LED for over 15 years; it’s fantastic for many skin conditions such as acne, irritation, inflammation, pain and rejuvenation.”
Clinical Aesthetician Pam Marshall, Mortar & Milk, echoes this: “look, I’ve worked with scores of clients who have started to use an LED face mask at home and I’ve seen the change in their skin. It absolutely reduces inflammation and of course it isn’t as intense as a treatment in clinic (I use Byonik, which is a laser LED, in every single facial because it really helps encourage fibroblasts to build more elastin, collagen, and hyaluronic acid), but just because an at home LED doesn’t penetrate as deeply, doesn’t mean it isn’t a really good measure — anyone who says otherwise doesn’t understand the trickle down effect where making the surface of the skin calm and the barrier healthy positively effects everything underneath.
Those masks are the equivalent of micro-dosing, bringing down inflammation with every use, making them a perfect investment if you have anything relating to inflammation from acne to psoriasis to premature ageing, which absolutely has a relationship with inflammation.”
Dr. Ash Soni, who is a UK and US trained plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder and owner of The Soni Clinic, told me that “LEDs can definitely benefit the skin with regular use. You have to be consistent, and not just use sporadically to see any benefits.”
Therein lies the real thing to focus on: using it often enough to see results. Because that, and not the investment in yet another product, is what’s required.
It is worth my adding here that the brand who called LED masks into question make a device that has a relatively small head, requiring the user to hold it over different areas of the face, making it quite a big time investment and quite frankly too much of a commitment for a time-strapped journalist. Is it for this reason — and because I have seen what at home LED masks can do over the years on my own acne-scarred skin — that I will faithfully stick to my LED mask.
I recommend the below brands, should you too want to get in on the skin-plumping, glow-enhancing action.
CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask
This FDA-cleared LED mask uses clinically-recognised wavelengths to brighten, balance, smooth, firm, and plump the skin – and it’s the one that Pam Marshall recommends to all her clients.
Buy now £299.00, CurrentBody
MZ Skin LED 2.0 LightMAX Supercharged LED Mask
Behind this brand is the revered Dr. Maryam Zamani, who’s an Oculoplastic Surgeon and Facial Aesthetics Doctor. This particular LED mask offers two modes, one for helping acne to clear, the other to boost collagen and the overall health of skin.
Buy now £600.00, Cult Beauty
The Light Salon Boost LED Face Mask
The Light Salon have built their iconic brand around the power of LED, offering facials relying on it and make a plethora of take home versions catering to different areas of the body, all of which treat skin to a bath of skin-boosting LED.
Buy now, The Light Salon
