Angels took to the runway in Paris this afternoon as Louis Vuitton gave the late Virgil Abloh an ethereal send off, unveiling the last ever collection the trailblazing designer had created for the fashion house before his untimely death from cancer in November last year.
The autumn/ winter 2022 menswear collection, dubbed "The ∞th Field," was shown in the historic Le Carreau du Temple with two sittings taking place today, the first for a 250-person audience comprising mainly editors, and the second, set to take place at 18.30 Paris time this evening, for 350 friends, family and (likely very) famous faces.
If the “Virgil Was Here” show in Miami in December, which had to be unexpectedly morphed into a memorial following Abloh’s tragic passing a few days prior, was a tribute to the man, today’s event was a celebration of the astounding body of work over which Abloh presided in his eight season-long tenure at the Vuitton helm.
From the moment he replaced Kim Jones as Louis Vuitton’s creative director in 2018, Abloh pioneered an energetic and inclusive LV aesthetic that embraced collaborations, relaxed, streetwear-inflected silhouettes and a distinct sense of whimsy – all of which were present in today’s offering.
A live orchestra sat centre stage, performing tunes composed by Tyler, the Creator, while dancers and models rolled and twirled about the minimal set clad in flat-brimmed caps, silky tracksuits, oversized jacquard floral trench coats and Abloh’s original sneaker designs the Tactic and the Trainer. In the bag department, the LV Keepall came reworked in clear plastic and luxe velvet, and hiking backpacks were floral embossed.
Neon wraparound sunglasses, billowing maxi skirts and fur coats all echoed designs seen in previous seasons, while the tailoring – which came asymmetrical and dripping in crystals – oozed the subverted luxe for which Abloh was known.
In truth, this was more about a performance than it was about flogging clothes. As evidenced by the finale, which came when models decked in white with white lace angel wings appeared to a background chorus of Kali Uchis’ “See You Again, before the Maison’s staff poured onto the stage in matching tie-dye t-shirts to hug all and sunder before a standing ovation.
Nothing could have been clearer, Virgil was here.
