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National
Madeleine Rojahn

Ancient European winemaking tradition using qvevri revived in Tasmania

Winemakers say qvevri adds something special to the flavour of a vintage. (Supplied: Peco Wines)

In his Hobart studio, potter Isaac Patmore focuses on small items such as vases, plates, and cups. 

But a winemaker's request for him to make a Georgian qvevri added a minor "speed bump" to his production line.

Qvevri are clay pots that originated in Georgia, a country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, 8,000 years ago and are still being used to make wine.

Some hold up to 2,000 litres, meaning they're so big the kilns are often built around them because trying to move a wet, unfired pot is too risky.

Additionally, the only way to clean them once they're buried underground is to lower yourself down to the darkness with a ladder.

The tradition of making wine with qvevris originated in Georgia 8,000 years ago. (Supplied: Wikimedia)

Luckily, Mr Patmore and the winemaker settled on something a touch smaller.

Even so, he's had to rethink his practice to accommodate what he called a "whopping huge jar".

Over the past couple of years, two more winemakers looking to experiment and break away from conventional ageing methods have requested clay pots from Mr Patmore.

Isaac Patmore says there are only a few potters making qvevri. (Supplied: Small Fires Studio)

Mr Patmore knows of two other potters making wares for winemakers in Australia but believes he is the only one in Tasmania.

"I think there's quite a strong movement against the way commercial manufacturers make wine," he says.

"They're wanting to go more on these older styles of vessels — I think it is quite attractive.

"The other thing is it gives you a point of difference in the marketplace when you can tell a story about what you do."

Hannah and Ben Pearson use grapes from Hannah's parents' vineyard. (ABC Rural: Madeleine Rojahn)

Taste of terroir

Tamar Valley winemakers Hannah and Ben Pearson are the only winemakers in Tasmania using the qvevri clay pots — most of the others use the amphora, the stronger Italian version.

Georgian qvevris are more fragile than other types because they are fired at low temperatures.

Ms Pearson believes the only original-style Georgian qvevri is at her parents' property.

She says you can't clean the pots using warm water or instruments because that would damage the insides by stripping away the beeswax lining the pot.

"Whereas normally, if you're using a big plastic tub, you can just use a pump or tip it with a forklift straight into the press," she says.

"So that's a lot more user-friendly in that respect."

No warm water or implements can be used to clean a qvevri. (Supplied: Peco Wines)

After five of the expensive qvevris — costing $2,500 each — broke during their journey to Tasmania, the Pearsons were relieved to find a potter in Tasmania from whom to source their first local vessel.

Mr Patmore makes stronger vitrified pots by firing them at higher temperatures, which he says also reduces oxidisation levels.

Now in their third vintage, the Pearsons will taste wine from their Tasmanian pot for the first time this year.

Hannah Pearson ages wine in clay pots at her parents' vineyard in the Tamar Valley. (ABC Rural: Madeleine Rojahn)

The Pearsons say the reaction of the wine with the clay and the story of the terroir proves that it's all been worth it.

"It's something quite special that, 8000 years later, they're still making wine in the same way in Georgia," Ms Pearson says.

"I also love that it's more natural ingredients — the clay itself comes from the earth.

"If you're talking about terroir in winemaking, the soil has an impact on the vines, so it's highly possible the clay that the pots have been made from could as well."

Ms Pearson says customers at tastings can pick out the wines made from clay pots because of their distinct earthiness.

"The clay allows the wine to soften and really just shows off the fruits, the tannins — everything that's developed from the wine, especially when you do a wild ferment," she says.

"It just really enhances the flavours, and we like the texture, the little bit of texture and flavour that does come from the clay."

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