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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lisa Harris

Anchovy sauce to sundried chillies: what the UK’s Italian chefs eat for a real taste of home

Glass and bottle of Menabrea on table with Italian food
Regional ingredients and family recipes make for a real taste of Italy. Photograph: Lizzie Mayson/The Guardian. Food stylist: Flossy McAslan. Prop stylist: Anna Wilkins

Colatura di alici
Simona Di Dio, head chef and co-owner of Bottega Caruso, Margate

My mother always told me that spaghetti con le vongole only needs fresh clams, extra virgin olive oil, wine, garlic, chilli, parsley and pepper. But since I discovered colatura di alici, I always add that, too. My mum doesn’t need to know! The intense, salty depths of this anchovy sauce are hard to describe; you just need a few drops to finish a dish. It’s an ancient descendant of Roman garum, close to Asian fish sauce, but equally very different. We always have it on the shelves at Bottega Caruso and I still get excited telling people about it – it’s the umami taste per eccellenza.

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