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Marie Claire
Marie Claire
Lifestyle
Lily Russo-Bah

Anatomy of a Wardrobe: Bay Garnett on Thrifting, Trendsetting, and Taking Sustainable Fashion Mainstream

Within the fashion community, Bay Garnett is something of a legend. For those who may not immediately place the face to the name — yet count themselves as devoted fashion fans — her influence will almost certainly have been felt, knowingly or not. A stylist, author and passionate advocate for sustainability and thrifting, Garnett has long championed second-hand as not just an alternative, but an aesthetic.

One of her defining moments came when former British Vogue Editor-in-Chief Alexandra Shulman commissioned her to style a shoot composed entirely of vintage clothing, photographed by the legendary Juergen Teller. Little did she know that the story would go on to produce one of the most instantly recognisable images in fashion history — and cement her status as the UK’s original thrift pioneer.

(Image credit: Getty Images)

When I arrive at Bay’s west London home to discuss what clothes we'll be covering in our interview, she gently requests that we don’t dwell on that banana top — the piece that has become almost synonymous with her name. For those unfamiliar with the lore: Garnett discovered the now-infamous banana-print top in a second-hand shop for 5 dollars. When her friend Phoebe Philo spotted it in a shoot Garnett styled for Vogue, she asked to borrow it. Months later, the fruit motif appeared as inspiration in Philo’s collection for Chloé. While it’s understandable that Garnett may tire of retelling the story, it remains a compelling example of how second-hand fashion can ripple into the mainstream.

Chloe Spring-Summer 2004 Ready-To-Wear Collection In Paris (Image credit: Getty Images)

Fashion runs in her blood. Garnett began her career in New York, where her mother — who was awarded an OBE for services to literature — worked at both British and American Vogue and authored The Vogue Book of Fashion Photography. In 1997, Garnett co-launched the New York edition of cult anti-fashion magazine Cheap Date, originally founded in London by Kira Jolliffe. The publication earned them the moniker “thrift pioneers” and positioned Garnett as an early spokesperson for second-hand style. Contributors included Anita Pallenberg, Chloë Sevigny, Liv Tyler and Debbie Harry — women whose personal style embodied the undone glamour Garnett continues to reference today.

She was thrifting long before resale became a billion-pound industry, fuelled by platforms such as Vestiaire Collective, eBay and Vinted. Today, Garnett serves as Senior Independent Fashion Advisor at Oxfam, where she has led runway shows during London Fashion Week and launched the annual initiative Second Hand September. Garnett has also curated luxury pop-ups at Bicester and Selfridges — notably positioned beside a Prada concession — proving that pre-loved pieces can sit comfortably alongside high fashion.

(Image credit: @baygarnett)

Her personal style reflects her free-spirited sensibility. Low-slung, bohemian belts anchor her wardrobe; Hungarian embroidered silks, faded denim and louche tailoring complete the picture. There is an insouciance to the way she dresses — a refusal to overthink, even as every element is handpicked with love.

Her advice for uncovering second-hand treasures? Shop with intention. “Walking into a charity shop can feel overwhelming,” she explains, “so it helps to have something specific in mind.”

To watch Bay Garnett talk me through her wardrobe, click on the link above.

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