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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Mary Novakovich

An insider’s guide to central Dalmatia – the cleanest seas and vibrant histories

Aerial view of Zlatni Rat beach
Zlatni Rat beach, also known as the Golden Horn. Photograph: SimonSkafar/Getty Images/iStockphoto

A soft breeze blows through the woods that shade parts of Zlatni Rat beach, releasing the fragrance of warm pine. Here on Croatia’s most famous beach, on the island of Brač, fine pebbles form its slim V shape – giving the Golden Horn its famous moniker – the tip of which changes constantly with the tides. Seen from above, especially from Vidova Gora, the Adriatic islands’ highest point, the vivid shades of blue and green waters seem almost unreal.

Wander along the pine-shaded path to Zlatni Rat’s nearest village, Bol, and you’ll come across the centuries-old creamy stone houses with green shutters that were the legacy of hundreds of years of Venetian rule. Stone arcades frame restaurants lining the harbour, which, on Wednesday evenings in July and August, becomes the setting for a lively seafood festival. For a true taste of central Dalmatia, it’s hard to beat sitting by the sea eating freshly grilled fish that has just come off a boat.

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