“You never know what peace is until you walk on the shores or in the fields or along the winding red roads of Prince Edward Island in a summer twilight when the dew is falling and the old stars are peeping out and the sea keeps its mighty tryst with the little land it loves.”
This is how Lucy Maud Montgomery wrote of her beloved Prince Edward Island (PEI), reflecting the very same awe as her most cherished character, Anne (with an ‘e’) Shirley, when she first arrived at Green Gables.
The story of the strange red-headed orphan girl who by mishap arrives to live with the Cuthberts – a stoic pair of siblings – has captured the hearts and imaginations of millions across the world since its first publication in 1908.
Now translated into more than 36 languages, the book draws more than 1.5 million visitors to PEI every year, including thousands from Japan, where Anne of Green Gables has been a school curriculum stalwart since the 1970s.
Through Anne, who has been dubbed the most popular redhead in Japan, Montgomery’s writing captures the unique beauty and serenity of the island, from its fields of apple blossom and tulips, to its 680 miles of unspoiled shoreline.
At 139 miles long, with a population of just 170,000, the island runs to a seaside rhythm. Connected via bridge to New Brunswick, it’s geographically close to its mainland neighbours, but far removed in its culture, with locals referred to as either ‘islanders’ or ‘from away’.
Far from being exclusionary however, this small island community still welcomes newcomers with warmth and interest, with the island’s First Nations people, the Mi’kmaqs’ greeting “P’jilasi” – which literally means “welcome, come and find your place” – still ringing true.
While most famed now for its literary ties, it’s true, too, that there’s a place and an interest for everyone on PEI, from its rich bounty of seafood, to its national parks, far-reaching trails, and quaint rural towns.
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Anne of Green Gables
When Anne of Green Gables was released, most readers weren’t even aware that Prince Edward Island existed. Montgomery’s vivid depictions of Lover’s Lane, the Lake of Shining Waters, and the Haunted Wood through the eyes of infectiously enthusiastic Anne, however, put PEI on the map and brought millions of fans to retrace the footsteps of their favourite character.
Arriving on Prince Edward Island, it is easy to imagine the whirlwind effect of Anne’s rapid, noisy optimism on the sleepy seaside towns; and easy, too, to understand Anne’s ability to see the beauty and splendour in every cherry blossom, apple tree, and dandelion.
Kindred spirits of Anne can visit a great many of her most cherished spots here, including Green Gables itself. Thought to have been based on the home of Lucy M Montgomery’s grandparents, the interior is now decorated as per the imaginings of the book, with visitors able to walk through the house and the adjoining trails through the Haunted Wood and Lover’s Lane.
With nearly 500 miles of unspoiled beach punctuated only by quaint red-painted lighthouses, there are reams of spots to visit for day trips
Run by descendants of Montgomery, there is also a secluded Anne of Green Gables Museum, where fans can learn more about the trailblazing author at the home she referred to as “The Wonder Castle of my Childhood”. This is also where Montgomery was married, with fans from all over the world still travelling to host their own weddings in the same spot.
Visitors to PEI should also not miss Anne of Green Gables – The Musical, at the Confederation Centre of the Arts in the island’s capital city of Charlottetown. A truly joyful and moving production, this is a fantastic depiction of the novel that leaves not a single dry eye in the house.
Throughout her entire works and extensive journals, it is clear Montgomery found great solace in the natural surroundings of PEI. To walk the real-life locations from which she took her inspiration and drew energy to continue her struggle to pursue her dreams of writing is a moving pilgrimage well worth making to learn more about this tenacious literary icon.
Great outdoors
Gentle surf, untouched red-iron sands, miles of vibrant yellow canola fields, biodiverse wetlands, and towering sand dunes, Prince Edward Island is a nature lover’s paradise.
With nearly 500 miles of unspoiled beach punctuated only by quaint red-painted lighthouses, and 5,440 acres of National Park home to an array of birds and wildlife, there are reams of spots to visit for day trips – many of which you’ll likely have all to yourself.
Whether hiking, biking, running or paddling, there are also epic active adventures to be had here, with numerous well-maintained trails.
Arguably the most challenging of these is The Island Walk – a 430-mile long ramble circumnavigating the entirety of PEI. Divided into 32 sections, each designed to span one day, this month-long journey travels along rugged coastline, through rich, fertile farmland, charming woodland and a great many quaint island towns.
For those on two wheels there’s the Confederation Trail, which runs tip-to-tip 170 miles across PEI, built on the island’s decommissioned railway lines. From Tignish to Elmira, keen cyclists can follow rolled stone-dust roads west to east, with services and facilities from towns to campsites plotted all the way. Happily for the thighs, the gradient of this trail never exceeds more than two per cent, so no hefty climbs are required. In the winter months, this trail quickly becomes blanketed in snow, after which it can be toured by snowmobile.
If you would rather escape land entirely, it’s also possible to sea kayak around the island, pulling ashore on one of the many miles of vibrant red-sand beaches for sunset and a campfire before paddling back out to restart your journey the next morning.
Foodie heaven
From its 40 varieties of potatoes, to its world-famous seafood, there’s a reason PEI is known as Canada’s Food Island. For those who appreciate fresh produce, there is no better place to visit and, with a packed annual calendar of food festivals and farmers’ markets, you’ll be hard-pressed on what to sample next.
On PEI, such is the importance of seafood that Setting Day – the first day of the spring lobster season, when fishermen set their lobster pots – may as well be a national holiday. Usually taking place at the start of May, as fishers head out to sea in the early hours, villages often led by bagpipers gather to wish them an abundant season.
From June onwards, lobster rolls are top of most island menus, along with award-winning oysters and an abundance of mussels, with PEI producing an estimated 80 per cent of all of Canada’s stocks.
Every islander has their favourite spot, but Richard’s may be the most in-demand, with punters sometimes queuing for hours for their rolls – which are most definitely worth the wait.
For ultimate freshness, though, locals advise to buy fresh from the fishing boats. “Go to the harbour with a tote and a note,” I’m told, “then take them home and gorge”.
And to accompany the riches from the sea? Potatoes, of course, which also grow in abundance here. With PEI’s unique varieties shipped all over Canada and beyond, the best you’ll find while on the island are at the end of driveways in the locals’ honesty boxes.
Independent creators
In PEI’s rural idyll exists an impressive range of independent artists, makers, and creators. From ceramicists to jewellers, book shops to galleries, the island sustains a whole host of creative industries thanks in part to visiting tourists, but also to a commitment by locals to shun major chains and support their own.
Victoria-by-the-Sea is a prime example. This historic seaport on the south coast of the island has a year-round population of just 120 yet is home to the charming Victoria Playhouse Theatre, a pottery studio, an independent candle maker, a glass gallery, several seafood restaurants and many more artisan producers.
Visiting Island Chocolates – a family-run chocolate shop and café in the town’s former general store – I found tables of locals chewing the fat while tourists sampled the family’s delicacies. These included several collaborations with other local businesses, such as a chocolate-infused vodka produced at a nearby distillery and chocolate fruit fillings made by the island’s fruit farmers – a display of camaraderie surely responsible for the survival of such a tight-knit community.
At Cardigan Station, too – a community food and entertainment hub located in the picturesque Cardigan village – I found a vibrant mix of locals joining forces to create a meeting spot for their neighbours and visitors alike. Serving a weekly changing dinner menu heavily focused on local seasonal ingredients, the space also operates as the village pub and hosts regular farmers’ markets to showcase local producers and craft makers.
And a word to the wise for visitors; the crème de la crème of this small town culture is the Kitchen Party to which, if you’re invited, you absolutely must go. In this Canadian folk tradition deeply rooted in Atlantic Canada and still thriving in PEI, those “from away” are invited into the home, everyone brings a dish and their instruments and a communal meal, while song or storytelling are shared and enjoyed with newfound friends.
Prices for a return flight from London Heathrow to Charlottetown in June 2025 start from £651pp with Air Canada (Economy Standard)
