Riviera Maya
First stop to decompress from London? The beach, obvs. More specifically, Andaz within Mayakoba, a mega-resort near Cancun. Though if this sounds like hell, fear not because, despite it being one of four hotels within a compound, here is a modern, secluded paradise. Spread along a white sandy beach and winding lagoons home to tropical birds, iguanas and alligators (non-threatening, appaz), Andaz makes all-inclusive holibobs feel wholly chic.
As the hotel is designed for completely switching off, we dedicated our time to, well, pretty much nothing. Slow sunrise jogs on the beach, indulging at executive chef Miguel GoÌmez VaÌzquez’s five restaurants (hence the jogging), and gently learning about indigenous Mayan culture via a cacao workshop and a trip to a small community fostering rare, stingless Melipona (bees) and their prized honey was pretty much it.
The restaurants pull influences from all across Asia, other Latin American countries and the Mediterranean, though naturally the Mexican fare is the star of the show. Breakfasts of tlacoyos (a parcel of corn masa) filled with cactus and soft cheese, and enfrijoladas (filled corn tortillas submerged in black beans) with scrambled eggs and smoked pork sausage at Tinta Del Pulpo convincingly soaked up the previous night’s Margaritas, while tamales, build-your-own enchiladas and sweet conchas made for lighter morning bites at Cocina Milagro. Coco Loco cocktails served in fresh coconuts on the beach became our midday ritual, followed by light, fresh ceviche and aguachile (similar to ceviche, but with more zingy juice) for lunch, and rib eye and tempura fish tacos served with beach views back at Tinta Del Pulpo for supper. In a nut-shell? Nutritious, wholesome and entirely delicious... if you don’t log the cocktails.
Mexico City
Thank God part one was relaxing because Mexico City is anything but. Vibrant, eclectic and delectable? Definitely. But blissful? Unless you’re mid-mouthful, no. And all the better for it. Here we checked in to another Andaz, this time in stylish La Condesa, a stone’s throw from Parque Mexico, which, with its contemporary aesthetic and sleep-like-you’re-dead beds, made a great base. Though we didn’t see it much. With just over two days on our hands, we bypassed the Frida Kahlo and Luis BarragaÌn’s temples and instead trawled the city’s eateries.
Alright, I take it back: early mornings in Condesa are tranquil. A time reserved for street vendors rolling out their carts, the avenues brimming with colourful architecture and sprawling trees with wayward roots are a haven of calm. Wandering through the park past locals exercising and practising musical instruments to breakfasts of freshly baked kouign-amann (a sweet puff of slow baked pastry) at Saint — and fig and prosciutto baguettes and chilaquiles (tortilla chips softened with salsa) at Malcriado — were our downtime. Meanwhile, Gabriela CaÌmara’s tuna tostadas and Margaritas in the effervescent Contramar and the corn with chicatana ant mayonnaise (yes, really) and avocado tacos made with the ‘holy leaf’ at Molino tortilleria made memorable lunches.
Coffee at Quentin kept jet lag at bay until dinner, when we arrived at Sarde for modern seafood, and indulged in Enrique Olvera’s Mexican fine dining experience Pujol, where the ‘mother mole’ (a rich, dark sauce made of charred fruit, vegetables and spices) is more than 3,000 days old. Finally, post-dinner, when residents take to the pavements and the city is most ablaze, pastor tacos cut from flaming trompos at El Vilsito quietened the buzz of cocktails from LicoreriÌa Limantour. Our little jaunt’s calorie count? That’s a mystery. All I know is, it barely touched the sides. See you soon, CDMX. Rooms at Andaz Mayakoba from £205; Andaz Condesa from £223 (hyatt.com;untoldstorytravel.com)
