Ambassadors Clubhouse, London W1: ‘A restaurant that wants to lead you astray’ – restaurant review

Ambassadors Clubhouse, London W1: ‘Knowingly ostentatious, lavishly anti-minimalist and a swanky location.’ Photograph: Clare Lewington/The Guardian

Ambassadors Clubhouse is now open, with its knowingly ostentatious title, lavishly anti-minimalist decor and swanky, off-Regent Street location – if you ever wept at the door of Momo in the 1990s after being told your name’s not down, you’re not coming in, but Kate and Naomi are, now is your chance. Ambassadors Clubhouse is the newest Indian venture from JKS, the people behind Gymkhana and many more: BiBi, Trishna and Brigadiers, among many others. It’s no exaggeration to say that London would have a very different dining landscape without siblings Jyotin, Karam and Sunaina Sethi, so if anyone can make a go of the former Momo site, with its capacious dining room, outdoor terrace, private dining rooms and underground nightclub, it is JKS.

Thankfully, my only post-lunch plans were to kick off my shoes and snooze.