Granting the Christmas wish of Trini-Irish reader Niall, for whom this cake is an essential part of the festive celebrations, this Caribbean classic is sure to convert even the most convinced fruitcake sceptic, not least because of the generous helping of rum. Each island has its own style, so this recipe is just a starting point: look up ones by Trinidad’s Shivi Ramoutar, Jamaica’s Brigid Ransome Washington and Barbados’ Paul Carmichael, among others, to see the difference.