Overwhelmed by ostentation, the pressure of matrimonial tradition, or the risk of investing in something not quite you? Here, Wallpaper* selects the best alternative bridal wear designers and brands to dip into this summer and beyond, each creating pieces with ease, elegance and just the right amount of drama to wear when saying ‘I do’.
Best alternative bridal wear and wedding dresses
Completedworks’ ‘Modern Bride’ collection
Bridal attire requires the accessories to match, which – much like your choice of dress – should avoid the saccharine and the obvious. Step in London-based jewellery brand Completedworks, which has revealed a new wedding capsule, stocked exclusively at e-retailer Net-a-Porter. Already much-loved by contemporary brides for founder Anna Jewsbury’s unexpected pieces which draw on contemporary art and ceramics for inspiration, the new capsule – titled the ‘Modern Bride’ collection – promises to ‘reform traditional rules of bridal dressing... championing the unexpected and irrelevant’. Zirconia gems and freshwater pearls feature throughout the pieces, which despite their less-than-traditional designs retain a feeling of sweetness and romance.
Completedworks’ ‘Modern Bride' collection is available from Net-a-Porter.
Molly Goddard
‘It was really something that I resisted for a while,’ Molly Goddard recently told Wallpaper* about her bridal line, a series of romantic but real wedding dresses which include the designer’s hallmarks, from millefeuilles of tulle and ruffles to shirred cotton dresses and colourful, idiosyncratic accessories. She was eventually convinced by the sheer number of women who contacted her about custom bridal wear; in 2020, her first made-to-order collection was launched, followed by a ready-to-wear offering in 2022. Her latest outing, for 2024, comprises four new dresses titled ‘March’, ‘April’, ‘May’ and ‘June’, which Goddard calls ‘plays on some of our most-loved styles’ (the dresses feature anemone-like ruffles, romantic tulle skirts, or simpler smocked bodices).
’My main tip is not to suddenly become a totally different person,’ Goddard advised when selecting bridal wear, particularly when diverting from traditional bridal wear. ‘Trying a new silhouette you have never worn before rarely works; people look best when they are comfortable in what they’re wearing... I want people to feel happy and comfortable! Able to move freely and like themselves.’ Read more.
Molly Goddard bridal wear is available from mollygoddard.com, where customers can also arrange appointments for made-to-order gowns.
Danielle Frankel
A sense of drama imbues Danielle Frankel’s bridal offering, which the New York-based designer says melds ‘nostalgia and tradition’ with a contemporary, directional approach. She deems her latest collection one of ‘accidental impressionism’, using the textures and colours of oil-on-canvas landscapes to inspire hand-painted ‘petit-fleurs’, watercolour-inspired prints, and 3D appliqué florals. Meanwhile sculptural elements – from enormous organza flowers to metal and clay blossoms – utilise artisans from Ukraine and South Africa. Strikingly, Frankel uses colour to arresting effect, making a strong case against traditional bridal whites: here, cool alabaster meets romantic, patinated shades of rust, hibiscus red, pale cytrus, and chrysanthemum, the designer’s favourite flower.
Danielle Frankel bridal wear is available from Mytheresa, while Collection XI (above) is available for pre-order at daniellefrankelstudio.com.
Cecilie Bahnsen
Known for her romantic, feminine silhouettes with homespun details – from lace and quilting to patchwork and appliqué – Copenhagen-based designer Cecilie Bahnsen has long seen her gowns adopted by brides in search of alternative attire for their nuptials. Now, a new bespoke service formalises the process, comprising an array of made-to-order gowns which riff on Bahnsen‘s most popular designs, from tulip-skirted dresses adorned with bows to layered styles with elegant, organza underskirts. Each of the gowns will be handmade in Copenhagen in a riff on the Parisian art of haute couture, taking eight to 12 weeks for delivery (Bahnsen has strong links to Paris, where she shows her collections twice-yearly). ‘[They] merge couture notions with a sense of ease, bringing relaxed romanticism to bridal style… each garment is an artistic expression of devotion, embracing modernity while carrying on tradition,’ says Bahnsen of the offering, hoping to make brides ‘float down the aisle’.
Cecilie Bahnsen ready-to-wear is available from Net-a-Porter, while private appointments for custom bridal wear can be arranged at ceciliebahnsen.com.
Roksanda
At her eponymous label Roksanda – which shows each season at part of London Fashion Week – Roksanda Ilinčić is known for a sculptural approach to volume and silhouette, oftentimes inspired by contemporary art (Ilinčić is an avid follower and collector, and cites sculpture, dance and architecture as some of her wide-ranging cultural reference points). She brings this approach to her bridal collection, which spans romantic caped dresses in ivory crepe, Grecian-style draped gowns, and unexpected details – like trailing tie fastenings which loop around the sleeve of a dress or cut-out elements, like that on the shoulder of the ‘Felina’ gown.
Roksanda bridal wear is available from Mytheresa and roksanda.com.
Hai
In 2023, London-based label Hai launched its debut bridal wear line. Comprising nine made-to-order pieces, from the frou-frou ruffles of the ‘Isabella’ gown to the tailored ‘Leonard’ jacket and ‘Flora’ trousers, the brand’s bridal wear offering riffs on the playful feminity at the heart of the label, which began as ‘an experiment in the possibilities of the silk’ (a veil and corsage-adorned gloves complete the collection). ‘Creating our first bridal collection has felt like such a natural extension for the brand,’ said founder and creative director Tessa Vermeulen when the collection launching, noting that Hai’s ready-to-wear dresses were already popular with brides. ‘I always love seeing brides tag us in their wedding photos. It’s such a lovely feeling knowing they’ve chosen to wear Hai for one of the most important days of their life. We’ve loved experimenting with different shapes and styles, and really exploring what makes this collection unique to us somewhere between elegant and playful.’
Hai bridal wear is available from homeofhai.com.
In-Grid Bride
Founded in 2020 by married couple Katie and Adam Barclay – the former a creative director and stylist, the latter a still-life photographer and set designer – In-Grid Bride focuses on unexpected silhouettes which eschew the frou-frou conventions of traditional wedding dressing. ‘It’s about shaking off that princess vibe of the wedding dress,’ Katie previously told Wallpaper*. ‘Precision and meticulous craftsmanship; post-modern, structured silhouettes, executed through traditional couture,’ describe the brand of the label’s hallmarks. An exploration of volume runs throughout the pieces – whether the bell sleeve of the off-the-shoulder ‘Cecily’ gown, or the flared ‘Kahlo’ dress with its hidden millefeuille of tulle ruffles. Each of the Made in England gowns are bespoke, fitted in the brand’s in-house atelier in Sheffield.
In-Grid Bride is available from in-gridstudio.co.
Vivienne Westwood Bridal
In her lifetime, iconoclastic British designer Vivienne Westwood became a go-to for brides seeking the unconventional when it came to dressing for their wedding day (memorably, the late designer dressed Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw in a theatrical corseted duchess satin and Radzimir taffeta gown for her nuptials in the first movie spin-off). More recent designs from the label continue Westwood‘s distinct approach, which melded historical references – corsets, romantic drapery, bell sleeves, opera gloves – with unorthodox cuts and silhouettes. The bridal wear offering is divided into two concise parts, a made-to-order and bespoke offering, the latter comprising couture-level dresses, featuring elements like metallic silver lace and dramatic metres-long Watteau trains.
Vivienne Westwood bridal wear is available from Mytheresa and Vivienne Westwood boutiques.
Gauge81
Known for its sensually-charged eveningwear, Gauge81 – the Amsterdam-based label started by Colombia-born Monika Silva Michelsen in 2019 – also offers a number of pieces which double as bridal wear. ‘[Made for the] effortless bride… cool, simple, fun,’ says the brand of the pieces, which include a 1990s-style full-length ice blue slip dress, gently oversized tuxedo jacket, and mini dress with asymmetric hem (befitting the mood, they are styled with vast wraparound sunglasses in the accompanying images). Alongside, there are also numerous options for bridesmaids, spanning draped gowns in vivid scarlet, cumin and yellow, as well as dressed-up separates from plunging blouses to signature cutaway blazers.
Available from gauge81.com.
Roland Mouret
After a recent reboot – the British brand was bought by Han Chong of Self-Portrait’s recently formed conglomerate SP Collection in 2022 – Roland Mouret has returned with a series of collections that place a razor-sharp focus on the precise, body-contouring approach to cut and silhouette which made him a household name. These are now brought to a new bridal collection, comprising pieces which the brand say straddle classicism and modernity for ‘a mix of styles perfect for every type of bride’ – whether a dramatic strapless gown with draped chiffon cape or simple off-the-shoulder dresses (the latter playfully teamed by Mouret with chunky black leather boots). A series of jewel-toned dresses, for bridal party or wedding guest, accompanies.
Roland Mouret bridal wear is available from Mytheresa.
Sandy Liang
New York-based label Sandy Liang is known for a playful approach to its collections, which often draw on nostalgic references from the eponymous designer’s childhood. The brand’s bridal wear mines a similar mood, comprising dresses named after princesses both real and fictional – Diana, Mononoke, Kaguya, and Peach – alongside three accompanying veils. Unexpected silhouettes, tulle layers and puffed sleeves are designed for what Liang called ‘the unconventional New York bride’ who nonetheless wants to feel ‘like a princess for the day’, without the ruffles and frills this might usually entail. The capsule is available to view in-person and online now, with each dress made-to-order and by appointment (veils, though, can be purchased off the rack in Liang’s Orchard Street store).
Sandy Liang bridal is available from sandyliang.info.
Taller Marmo
Taller Marmo’s bridal wear, launched in 2023, promises an exploration of ‘decoration, dressmaking and ceremony’ through ornate but contemporary designs which contain all the Milanese label’s hallmarks – namely, fringing and feathers in abundance. Drawing inspiration from 1960s jet-set style – Sophia Loren is noted as a perennial reference point – the intricately crafted collection comprises numerous options for the modern bride, from feather-trimmed mini dresses to signature kaftan-style gowns in alabaster white and cream, decorated with a plethora of detailing inspired by ‘nature’s gifts’ (flowers, corals, shells, et cetera). It lends the line the ‘essence of couture’, not least in the fabrics themselves, several of which are made in Como in Italy on traditional looms dating back to the 1950s, ‘thus adding to the romance of the pieces and harking to the notion of love beyond time; everlasting’.
Taller Marmo bridal wear is available from tallermarmo.com
The Own Studio
The Own Studio co-founders Jess Kaye and Rosie Williams are serving up a contemporary approach to wedding wear that stretches beyond ‘the dress’ and includes outfits for all bridal occasions. ‘Brides are on the hunt for a special evening outfit, a second-day dress, Friday night drinks and often a civil outfit too,’ says Williams. Sleek tailored trousers, asymmetric slip dresses and marabou-trimmed minis are a succinct reminder to possessed brides that no one need lose their sense of self, or style, when it comes to wedding attire. Made in the brand’s London atelier, the duo intentionally design pieces which can be worn again after the big day; the key to versatility is sleek silhouettes and ‘little details that create a big impact,’ says Kaye.
In April 2022, the duo unveiled two new offerings. Firstly, The Own Studio, a modern and relaxed take on the often dusty and dated bridal store. The by-appointment-only east London apartment is filled with furniture and objects by design greats from Mies van der Rohe to Florence Knoll and Marcel Breuer as well as contemporary designers like Campbell-Rey. Brides-to-be can also try and buy from an edit of jewellery by Alighieri and Completedworks, alongside pre-loved shoes from Prada, Gucci, Manolo Blahnik and more. Secondly, their newly launched ‘Contemporary Collection’ offers a capsule of ten easy pieces for those looking for something more simple than a custom wedding dress. Each piece is made-to-order – shoppers choose their nearest size but there are no fittings as with their bridal outfits – and has a lead time of roughly six weeks. Tilly Macalister-Smith
The Own Studio bridal wear is available from theownstudio.com.
Maison Rabih Kayrouz
There’s a soft fluidity to Maison Rabih Kayrouz’s bridal collection, an offering which celebrates purist forms, draped silhouettes and shapes which are powerful in their lack of ostentation or embellishment. Silk chiffon, satin, organza, grosgrain ribbon and cotton are used to create alternative bridal wear creations that bring an haute couture-worthy sense of emotion to ready-to-wear. For the bride more moved by minimalism, and uninspired to flirt with flou, the Lebanese label’s designs have an insouciant, refined élan. A utilitarian vest top gently undulates into a softly A-line skirt, a dress resembles a fluidly draped column, and a relaxed trouser suit has a jacket sliced at the sleeves. Laura Hawkins
Maison Rabih Kayrouz bridal wear is available from maisonrabihkayrouz.com.
Self-Portrait
London-based Self-Portrait – founded by Han Chong in 2013 – has long been a go-to label for wedding guest dresses, and now the brand has introduced a collection which answers the wearable-yet-wondrous wardrobe requests of the bride too. This alternative bridal offering balances pragmatism with pizzazz, frou with finesse, featuring mini-dresses with bow details, crystal embellishments and pleated capes and tailoring, from bouclé blazers which tie at the waist to 1980s-centric jackets with buckle details. The collection revels in the feminine flourishes that define Self-Portrait, from rose and polka dot lace to floral guipure, and is swathed in pristine tones, from ivory to cream, whilst short lengths, transparent fabrics and androgynous shapes bring modern ease to matrimony.
Self-Portrait fans, whether brides themselves, bridesmaids or wedding guests, now have no shortage of options for upcoming nuptials. These are silhouettes that speak of timeless ease, suited to any bridal bash, whether saying ‘I do’ in a registry office or on a remote sandy shore. Laura Hawkins
Self-Portrait bridal wear is available from Mytheresa.
Asceno
Who needs constriction on a day focused on celebration? It’s a mindset that London-based resort and ready-to-wear label Asceno agrees with. ‘Early on in our friendship, we knew we wanted to create a clothing brand that was pared back and relaxed,’ Poppy Sexton-Wainwright told Wallpaper* of the intention behind London brand Asceno, which specialises in streamlined separates, including silk pyjamas and easy dresses.
Its bridal wear collection is sure to encourage matrimonial bliss for the understated modern bride. Think: silk slip dresses that skim the body, fluid pyjamas and robes, that are fitting not just for a ceremony itself, but the lead up to it too. The offering also includes a white silk-crepe tailored suit that is eternally insouciant. The archive wedding look that inspired the style? The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking jacket that Bianca Jagger wore to wed Mick Jagger in 1971. Laura Hawkins
Asceno bridal wear is available from asceno.com.
Blazé Milano
For the more androgynous dresser, the concept of saying ‘I do’ in a dress sends shockwaves of style panic. Luckily, Blazé Milano designers Corrada Rodriguez D’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Maria Sole Torlonia have the well-tailored matrimonial answer. The trio’s label celebrates the eternal chic of the tailored jacket, referencing women who have championed its enduring silhouette, from Coco Chanel to Biana Jagger. Now, the label has launched a series of blazers, blouses and trousers which tap into this insouciant style, including a tactile cream version of its signature ‘Everyday’ blazer and a soft silk jacket with a robe-inspired tie. Laura Hawkins
Blazé Milano bridal wear is available from blaze-milano.com.
Bon Bridé
‘What’s in my wardrobe? Round necks, roll-necks, I love a long sleeve,’ says Pippa Cooke of the founding design elements which inspired the silhouettes she creates at Bon Bridé. Cooke – who cut her teeth buying for Topshop, and developing House of Hackney’s fashion line – saw a gap in the bridal market when she herself was getting married in 2013. ‘The whole system seemed so backwards. Especially the idea of paying thousands of pounds for a wedding gown with barely any time to try it on.’ West London-based Bon Bridé launched in 2019 and specialises in pared-back, refined designs, with subtle details, like raw hems, pearl embroidery and zips. Silhouettes are unrestricted and unlined, swapping ‘shiny silk’ and lace, for soft wool and delicate crepe. Think fluid gowns which drape sensually across the back, or long dresses with relaxed button-down details. Laura Hawkins
Bon Bridé bridal wear is available from bonbride.com.
Lein Studio
‘The goal was to bridge that gap between bridal wear and womenswear,’ says New York-based Meredith Stoecklein, who cut her teeth at Zac Posen, Narciso Rodriguez and in the world of custom-designed celebrity dressing before launching her wedding brand Lein in 2016. Aimed at making the bridal wear world more approachable – ‘so many women just want to wear a white dress from their favourite designer’ – Stoecklein creates sartorially-minded styles fit not just for a ceremony, but rehearsal dinners, wedding brunches and beyond. Think strapless dresses in ethereal nude tulle or with delicate French lace skirts, and more daring creations including a confetti-centric fringed mini dress and flocked lace gowns and chiffon halter neck dresses in shades of black. ‘I want to offer ready-to-wear styling in an elevated way that still honours the meaning of the moment you are shopping for,’ she says.
Sustainability-minded brides today are conscious of the excess of wearing a dress simply for just one day. Stoecklein is emphatic that her alternative bridal wear can be worn again and again. ‘I love the idea that clients can incorporate Lein pieces into their daily closet and relive a part of their wedding memory,’ she says. Clothing to me has always been like perfume; it can trigger a memory of when I wore something, who I was with and what fun we were having.’ Laura Hawkins
Lein Studio bridal wear is available from leinstudio.com.
Wed
‘For our second season we used deadstock fabrics from a 300-year-old mill that wove the taffeta for Princess Diana’s wedding dress,’ says Evan Phillips, co-founder of London-based bridal wear brand Wed, which launched its first collection in 2019. The conscious brand incorporates waste fabrics into its draped, transparent and asymmetric designs, that appeal to those searching for something a little off-kilter. It’s latest offering features tiered dresses, puffball and handkerchief skirts, ruched blouses and trousers, in white, black, red and pink fabrics, which have been sourced from unwanted wedding dresses found on eBay. ‘We’re really giving these bridal fabrics like lace, sequins and heavy beading a second life,’ Phillips adds.
Wed was born from co-founder Amy Trinh’s inability to find a wedding dress that hit the sweet spot between something ‘really casual’ or ‘over the top’ for her own big day. ‘I spoke to Evan and we decided to create my dress together as a fun thing to do,’ she says. ‘Then in a more business sense, we wanted to explore this gap in the market.’ The soon-to-be-betrothed can visit Wed’s studio in London, for a piece that’s a variant on their collection designs or an entirely bespoke creation. ‘We’ve had clients who want a top from one style and a skirt from another,’ Phillips says. ‘We’re talking with women who have a really good eye for design.’ Laura Hawkins
Wed bridal wear is available from wed-studio.com
