Before rhubarb was paraded around like a fruit, crowning pavlovas, cakes and tarts, it was – and, in fact, is – a vegetable. We shouldn’t forget this, because the crispness of raw rhubarb is perfect in salads, sambols and pickles, while in cooked form it sits beautifully alongside rich, fatty proteins such as mackerel, pork and burrata, all of which welcome its tart cut-through.
