When recently retired Phillip and Michelle Stivens bought Heifer Station, in Orange, in 2009, the plan was simple - uproot the vines that were barely visible among the overgrown blackberries, and return the property to its roots, fattening cattle.
But life's never straight forward ... in this case taking a twist when they learned that the 54-hectare property, on the slopes of Mount Canobolas at an altitude of 900 metres, was a prime location for cool climate wine production.
A decision was needed: a relaxed life watching cattle contentedly graze, or produce wine, of which they knew nothing.
For six months they agonised before taking a leap of faith. Accidental vignerons it would be.
"The previous owners had been overseas for five years and the property was in a state of disrepair," Michelle explained. "We had no machinery, which meant we had to clear it all by hand.
"It took three years to complete and we'd ring friends and family asking for help."
Their payment?
"A sausage sizzle ... I suspect a few of our calls went unanswered," Michelle said with a laugh.
"Phillip grew up in the Riverina from a farming family and he was always passionate about growing things.
"He would say it's all about soil health and plant health - get that right and you're fine. So in the end we took a chance."
With no regrets it would seem, because Heifer Station is thriving.
As it should because the property has a rich history. It was a stopover for Cobb and Co coaches in the mid-1800s where they would change horses.
"At the time there was also a pub and post office here, in what was known as Heifer Station Village," Michelle said.
It saw quite a bit of activity during the gold rush, which brought a new wave of immigrants seeking their fortunes, but when Orange was established, the village soon died.
"The owner of this place at the time secured the timber from the old pub and built a woolshed here with it. We've renovated that and converted it into our cellar door, so the timber for that is 150 years old."
It has been done with style because the rustic setting was named Best Cellar Door two years running in the NSW Tourism Awards.
Heifer Station's first wine vintage was in 2013 - their shiraz picked up a bronze medal - and they've come a long way in a short time.
These days they do between 10,000 and 12,000 cases annually, producing chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz, along with merlot, pinot gris and a sparkling wine called genisse (which means heifer in French).
"We use about half the fruit for our own label and sell the rest to winemakers in Orange, Mudgee and the Hunter Valley.
"In 2019 we were named top pinot noir at the NSW Wine Awards," Michelle said with obvious pride.
With 24 hectares under vine, and plans to plant riesling and build farm stay accommodation, cattle grazing is just going to have to wait.
WINE REVIEWS
SOFT, YET COMPLEX
Heifer Station Pinot Noir, 2022
$45
An appealing bouquet of rose petal, dark cherry and herbs sets the mood nicely here. The single vineyard wine has good weight, yet remains nimble and lithe with dark cherry and plum flavours, all so velvety and soft. Add some woody herb complexity and tangy acid - maybe even a hint of red licorice - and you're sipping away most contentedly.
STYLISH FRUIT BLEND
Charteris Chardonnay, 2022
$42
Winemaker PJ Charteris displays his trademark light touch with this wine, a blend of fruit from two Hunter vineyards with very different soil profiles. Slatey grapefruit flavours are to the fore, given a helping hand by quince and stonefruit. There's a nutty character as well, and the finishing acid has a lime character. Good drinking.
POISED CHARACTER
Tarras Central Otago Pinot Gris, 2023
$50
Quite a small production, with just 220 cases made of this single vineyard wine from the Alexandra sub-region of Central Otago. But if it's short on quantity, the quality is impressive. It's made in a bigger, richer style but retains ample poise. Pear flavours, apple, white peach and lychee, with a gentle lick of spice to finish.
