Gula melaka is made from the sap of flowers from coconut palm trees. You buy it in dark brown blocks. It has a deep butterscotch flavour, it’s also smoky and slightly bitter. This is the Malaysian version of what’s called gula jawa in Indonesia, or jaggery in Sri Lanka, although that uses a different palm.
You can melt it with a one-to-one ratio to water – add a couple of pandan leaves, or a vanilla bean. Simmer it for 10 or so minutes and it becomes a lovely syrup, which should keep for a while. Use this for sticky toffee pudding, on a panna cotta, over rice pudding or even on porridge. My favourite Malaysian dish is onde-onde, glutinous rice balls rolled in coconut. When you bite into one, a hidden gula melaka centre bursts in your mouth.
I love grating gula melaka for dressings in place of honey or sugar, especially as a way to balance spicy and sour flavours. I use it in marinades or when braising meat, and in curries. I have a sour Malay-style pineapple curry, and the classic flavours like lemongrass, tamarind and coconut milk work perfectly with gula melaka – it tones everything down, and adds a dark caramel flavour.
Abby Lee is the chef-owner of Mambow, London, SE15
