Ever since I inherited a 1940s Longines, I've become obsessed with the style of vintage watches. That’s why my eye was immediately drawn to the new Marlin Jet Automatic 38mm by Timex.
Although brand new for 2024, the Jet gives off strong 60s vibes thanks to its relatively compact 38 mm stainless steel case, simple dial and domed Hesalite crystal. It even has an automatic mechanical movement, visible through the exhibition case back, and the blue fabric strap further amplifies the vintage aesthetic.
Smaller watches are on-trend at the moment, and from the conversations I’ve had with watchmakers it’s a theme that is set to continue throughout 2024. It seems the market is moving away from 40 or 42 mm being the default size for a men’s watch, and instead we’re seeing a proliferation of sub-40mm pieces aimed at both men and women.
At 38mm, the Marlin Jet fits comfortably into this sector, with the compact size further emphasising the vintage look Timex is aiming for.
What is the Timex Marlin Jet Automatic like to wear?
I particularly like the domed crystal, which is made from the same Hesalite material as that of the Omega ‘Moonwatch’ Speedmaster. It isn’t as scratch-resistant as sapphire, but is less likely to crack than glass. Instead, while it will pick up scratches with regular use, it can be polished back to as-new condition with a tube of Polywatch and a soft cloth. I also like how the crystal covers the entire top surface of the watch, arcing right down to the case and even covering a ‘Marlin’ inscription at the 12 and six o’clock positions.
The domed crystal also nicely reflects the slight upward curve of the dial itself, which creates a pleasing shadow around its circumference. Timex describes the dial as white but I think it has more of a silver look to it. Either way, it is punctuated by a set of polished hour markers and thin black lines reaching outwards from the centre like a crosshair to the 12, three and six o’clock positions. It’s a detail that reminds me of the cockpit instruments of a 1960s aircraft.
The nine o’clock position is home to a 24-hour subdial. This isn’t a GMT complication, sadly, as it merely tells the same time as the main dial, but it’s a welcome addition nonetheless.
I’ve always loved watches with blue details, and I think the shade of the Marlin Jet’s 19mm fabric strap is especially smart. Since it lacks a set of holes for the buckle, the watch can be perfectly adjusted to any wrist size, and I sometimes find myself adjusting the pin’s position by a couple of millimetres as my wrist size varies slightly through the day. In short, it’s a strap designed so that you’ll always find the perfect fit.
The glass case back gives a view of the 21-jewel, Myoto M09F automatic mechanical movement within. This is not a Swiss movement, but at this price you knew it wouldn’t be. It’s Japanese and, weirdly, Timex doesn’t actually disclose the power reserve, but I’ve found it’ll keep time for a couple of days unworn without concern. Water resistance is 50 metres, so it’s safe to shower and swim in, but remember the strap might not enjoy getting wet.
Is the Timex Marlin Jet worth the money?
Absolutely. As far as I’m concerned, buying this watch is a complete no-brainer. I think it looks absolutely fantastic in a retro-futuristic sort of way, while also showcasing a design that Timex has clearly put plenty of thought into. The concentric circles on the bezel, crown and case back provide a nice dose of consistency, while the domed Hesalite crystal is a show-stopper of a design detail rare for a sub-£300 timepiece.
The inclusion of the 24-hour sundial is another nice detail, along with how the concave face curves upwards at its outer edge – and, of course, seeing the sweeping second hand and exposed automatic movement further elevate the look of this watch.
It’s also a great size and is very comfortable to wear all day, every day. It might not suit every outfit with the included strap, but I reckon the case and dial are smart enough to dress the look up with a leather strap, if you prefer. That said, I love the blue fabric strap and think it perfectly suits the silver dial and polished steel case.
At £280, this is a must-buy for any collection.
