Jake Deluca and Eduardo Molina run a tight ship at The Flotilla in Wickham.
I was keen to visit the one-hatted restaurant under the leadership of its new captain, head chef Deluca, who came aboard in January when Shayne Mansfield left to join Jana restaurant at QT Newcastle.
And I wasn't disappointed. Dining at Flotilla is an experience, and to make the most of this experience I suggest you leave your ego and inhibitions at the door and let Molina guide you through the food and wine offering as only he knows how.
Everything is very fluid at Flotilla. Staff work in unison around you and you tend not to notice them. You drain your glass and it's suddenly full again. You place your knife and fork on your plate and it's suddenly gone. You are not interrupted unnecessarily and the hum of conversation in the intimate space is a constant.
Read more: Wickham restaurant Flotilla is back in business
Sitting at the "chef's table" bar overlooking the kitchen is not for everyone, but I enjoy it. Deluca and his team calmly and seamlessly go about their jobs. One chef plates up a crab pasta dish and it's not up to his standards. He looks to Deluca, who nods in agreement, and the pasta is returned to the saucepan for attempt number two - which he executes with ease.
If you want to ask a question, don't hesitate. Each chef may be concentrating on the task at hand but they are also keenly aware of your presence.
Under Deluca the food offering is changing every six weeks or so. I ask him why.
"The menu revolves around what we can get in season that's of good quality; we have great relationships with our suppliers and they would honestly tell us if something is looking good or not, or is over priced," he said.
"That may mean the gooseberries are great this week but next week they won't be, or if the bonito is coming off its season."
It also keeps things fresh and interesting for his chefs. Deluca says he is looking forward to injecting new vegetables into the spring and summer menus.
"It's exciting coming out of the winter season when all you see is a lot of beige and dark colours ... now we have the vibrant greens, peas, asparagus, artichokes and broad beans that we love to see every year."
Mansfield pursued a "minimal waste" food policy while at Flotilla and Deluca has happily continued the practice.
"I think minimal waste has a few crucial parts to play in a business, not only saving money, but it's a shame to see something go to waste because it may not be regarded as the perfect cut of the animal or the way that the vegetable should look," he said.
"The challenge also helps bring on some ideas that you may not have thought about."
Read more: Flotilla to open a wine bar in spring
Molina's hospitality experience is a definite point of difference for the restaurant in the city. He is calling the shots when it comes to the new bar space taking shape at Flotilla.
"To say that we're excited about the new bar is an understatement," he said.
"Expect the same warm Flotilla feels, attention to detail and casual, yet informative, service. The menu will revolve around classic wine bar snacks: charcuterie and cheese, steak tartare and a selection of classic small plates ... the type of small bites that make you ask for another glass of wine, over and over again."
He encourages diners to look at Flotilla's cocktail list while they are eating, not just at the conclusion of their meals. The cocktails have, after all, been designed with the food offering in mind.
"On our bar program we're going to focus this summer on cocktails around seasonal fruit and light spirits. We are currently loving our new cocktail named ONE MORE (Four Pillars' Yuzu Gin, kumquat, Cointreau and orange juice)," he said.
"And we're all about Italian white wine varietals this summer. We plan on adding a range of Sicilian and Northern Italian whites that open in the glass with freshness, minerality and beautiful fruit notes. The perfect pairings for our new menu landing in mid-October.
"On the local side we love albarinos, fianos and pecorinos coming out of the Hunter. More please."
