Goji Kitchen & Bar at Marriott Marquis Queen's Park on Sukhumvit 22 has figuratively docked in the "Queen Of The Adriatic" to bring Venetian cuisine to Bangkok. The floating city is the second stop on executive chef Stephen Doe's gastronomic tour of Italy and is renowned for its seafood.
The seasonal Italian corner is whipping up six additional Venetian dishes in addition to its international buffet menu. Begin with a Fig burrata salad, a refreshing antipasti of sweet, fresh figs, creamy burrata, salty 24-month prosciutto and herby basil. Drops of balsamic reduction add sweet and tangy sensations with every bite.
Giving you a big seafood punch is the Baccalà mantecato. The whipped salted cod spread is an Venetian classic and Chef Doe says that "there is no need to season this small-bite appetiser because the cod has done its job splendidly to bring the flavour of seafood". Imported from Iceland, the cod is sun-dried to bring out its saltiness. It is then poached in milk and blended with mascarpone. Spread it on grilled polenta, which delivers a mild, buttery flavour with a peppery kick at the end, though it is overshadowed by the flavourful Baccalà mantecato.
Your epicurean quest wouldn't be complete without quintessential Italian dishes such as risotto and pizza. Chef Doe presents Risi e Bisi, which simply means rice and peas. The dish is traditionally made with the new peas of spring. A bite into the al dente risotto offers a mild flavour with a hint of Parmesan and pesto, while the tiny green peas burst with sweetness. Roasted pancetta not only adds a smoky, savoury flavour to the dish but also crunchiness. Chef Doe chooses Pescatore seafood for his pizza topping, which includes squid, mussels and tomato sauce, showcasing a traditional delicacy.
Out from the sizzling grill comes Seppia alla grilla or grilled cuttlefish, which is served with grilled radicchio. "The grilling method is simple and the only seasoning required is olive oil and salt, as I want to underline the freshness and sweetness of seafood," says chef Doe. The star of this dish that earned my "Buono" gesture is the agrodolce, an Italian sweet-and-sour sauce. It lightens up the bitterness of radicchio with its sweet zing from marinated raisins while an extra crunch comes from roasted pine nuts.
Bigoli al nero diseppie or squid ink pasta, is another Venetian highlight, comprising clams, squid, tomato dice and black ink sauce that comes with a flavourful kick of spiciness from dried chilli. Thick, hollow strands of bigoli give a very pleasing slurping experience. The hidden zing coming from the juice of sautéed seafood with white wine, which is rich in squid and clam flavours with a hint of garlic.
"The Venetian Adventure" is available on Friday, Saturday and Sunday dinner and at the weekend brunch till May 29. The buffet is priced at B2,190++ per person. Want a little more fizz? The free-flow adult beverage package costs B1,488++ per person and includes soft drinks, Bellini cocktails and imported Italian beer. Call 02-059-5999.
