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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Ailsa Sheldon

A taste of home: discovering Sweden’s local food heroes

A historic wooden house and small red boathouse by a pond at Högbo Bruk, Sandviken, Sweden.
The historic ironworks village of Högbo Bruk is now an outdoor recreation destination. All photographs: Emmie Bolmstedt/Visit Sweden Photograph: Emmie Bolmstedt/Visit Sweden

‘It’s a magical place, and not just because of the hotel.” Standing outside the greenhouses at Högbo Brukshotell, two hours north of Stockholm, Stefan Johansson is talking about far more than hospitality. The former head chef, now responsible for sustainability at Högbo, has spent much of the past decade helping reshape the way this corner of Sweden grows, cooks and thinks about food.

The catalyst was disarmingly simple. Years ago, a journalist asked Johansson why he was cooking the food he was cooking. Like many ambitious Swedish chefs, Stefan trained in Stockholm’s top restaurants, where ingredients from around the world were only a phone call away. The question lingered long after the interview ended.

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