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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Thom Breathnach

A tale of two cities: get to know Belfast and Dublin in 72 hours

Titanic Belfast
Titanic Belfast, a must-visit, tells the story of the world’s most renowned cruise liner. Photograph: Uwe Niehuus/4Corners Images

Day 1: Explore Belfast

Whether you’re a repeat or first-time visitor to Northern Ireland’s capital, Belfast, the city’s neighbourhoods offer so much – from the centre with its trove of shopping options and ever-evolving food scene to the cultural edge of the burgeoning Gaeltacht Quarter.

For a real local vibe, however, make tracks for one of the most vibrant neighbourhoods of them all – the Queen’s Quarter. This bustling district, home to the city’s famous Queen’s University, is crisscrossed with avenues lined with trendy cafes, gorgeous greenery and stellar attractions. Be sure to explore the fascinating Ulster Museum, an architectural icon itself, known as Northern Ireland’s treasure house of the past and present. While in the area, enjoy a fix of flat whites and baked treats at cafes such as Sinnamon Coffee or Aleksandar’s Bakery – or better still, get them to-go and join the locals lazing on the lawns of the district’s stunning Botanical Gardens.

Come afternoon, cross the River Lagan to one of Europe’s most successful urban renewal projects, Belfast’s vibrant Titanic Quarter and the Maritime Mile. The blockbuster attraction here is (no spoilers) Titanic Belfast, a first-class museum which charts the history of the world’s most renowned cruise liner. However, the docklands here are buoyed with other attractions too, from the historic HMS Caroline vessel (the second-longest serving ship in Royal Navy history) to the We Are Vertigo centre where you can suit up for a spot of indoor skydiving. For lunch, order the likes of a veggie ploughman (or a tipple) at the Titanic Distillers bar and coffee shop – there’s also chowder on offer at the Pantry in Titanic Belfast.

To work it off, why not hike like a local and lace up for an ascent of Cave Hill, the city’s most well-known natural landmark? It’s typically a two-hour stretch to the 368-metre summit and you can expect views of the city to crescendo with every step – you’ll even spot the Isle of Man and the coast of Scotland on a clear day. Back in the city, wrap up your day with a meal in one of its top dining spots, such as Ox or Molly’s Yard.

Day 2: A tale of two capitals

Belfast and breakfast go together like poached eggs and hollandaise sauce, and visitors to the city can look forward to an eclectic menu board of options, from traditional favourites at Maggie Mays to Latin American-inspired brunches at Panama cafe. If visiting Belfast at the weekend, check out the iconic St George’s Market, just across the way from Hilton Belfast. The city’s last Victorian covered market, it’s been satiating the appetites of foodies Laganside since 1890. It’s a great spot to enjoy a gargantuan Ulster fry too!

Come afternoon, it’s time to depart one capital city for the next and to make your journey south to Dublin. You’ll find excellent connectivity between Ireland’s two largest cities and whether you’re travelling by car, inter-city rail or bus, you’ll arrive in Dublin in about two hours. Keep an eye out for the Mourne mountains and the magical Cooley peninsula en route.

With your early afternoon arrival in Dublin, the city is your oyster (freshly shucked in this town). You’ll find a trove of attractions allowing you to dive into the culture of the capital, from the iconic Guinness Storehouse – its Gravity Bar offers some of the best views of the city, along with a pint of the black stuff – to lesser-known treasures such as MoLI, the Museum of Literature Ireland, which celebrates the country’s most beloved storytellers. Come evening, it’s time to savour Dublin’s food scene, whether it is indulging in modern Irish gastro pub fare at L Mulligan Grocer or savouring one of the city’s favourite pizzas at Bambino. Enjoy a traditional music session at the likes of the Cobblestone pub in Smithfield for the perfect chaser.

Day 3: Discover Dublin

Begin your day in the Irish capital by dipping into some of its top tourist attractions, many of which are a short taxi ride from The Morrison Dublin, Curio Collection by Hilton. A visit aboard the Jeanie Johnston, a replica famine ship moored in Dublin’s gleaming docklands, reveals the gripping tale of Ireland’s emigration during the Great Famine of the 1840s, while the National Gallery of Ireland, which showcases works from Caravaggio to Jack B Yeats, is a favourite with tourists and locals alike.

For a real taste of Dublin, however, why not indulge in a city food tour? Starting from Trinity College, Secret Food Tours takes visitors on a guided culinary crusade across the city, where you’ll experience everything from a masterclass on how to make the best Irish coffee to tasting sessions showcasing Irish cheeses, artisanal ice-creams and oysters.

To truly embrace the rugged side of this coastal city, hop on the light rail Dart in the afternoon. It whisks commuters and tourists along the most scenic seaside locations. To the north, the charming fishing village of Howth is a postcard pretty spot to while away an afternoon, while the likes of Killiney or Dalkey in Dublin’s southside are lesser-explored treasures to discover – perhaps known for their A-list residents (hello Bono and Enya!). The neighbouring villages offer spectacular coastal walks overlooking the Irish Sea.

To really deep-dive into coastal living, take the plunge at the Vico Bathing Place, a historic and hugely popular diving point in Killiney. Dining spots such as Dalkey’s Thyme Out deli or the delicious Grapevine restaurant will satisfy your appetite.

Take note, you can travel back from Dun Laoghaire harbour to the city on a sailing with Dublin Bay Cruises … what better setting for your Dublin sundowner?

Where to stay
Whether you base yourself in Dublin, Belfast, or both, Hilton has a range of hotels to suit you.

Hilton Belfast makes a prime base to explore Northern Ireland’s capital. It’s well placed for the River Lagan, and offers excellent city and river panoramas. Just a two-minute stroll to the heart of the city centre, it’s handy for the major attractions.

In Dublin, Hampton by Hilton Dublin City Centre, in the trendy Smithfield neighbourhood, offers an excellent base to discover the pulse of the city, while The Morrison Dublin, Curio Collection by Hilton is one of the most desirable luxury addresses in the city. For easiest access to both cities, Hilton Dublin Airport hotel lies a short transit to Dublin city centre, while being just 1hr 45min from Belfast.

Discover all Hilton hotels in Ireland

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