Founded in 1851 in New York, Kiehl’s has cemented its status as a reliable and enduring name in skincare, bodycare and haircare for more than a century – famed for its simple, fuss-free products and science-backed approach to formulas. Its ultra facial line is no doubt its most popular, and I’ve put the newest product in the range, the recovery cream, to the test on my dehydrated skin.
When I first started showing an interest in skincare, it was Kiehl’s that my mum bought for me – and I've been loyal to the beauty brand ever since. I grew up with the brand’s lip balm, hand lotion and ultra facial cream, so its latest launch – a recovery face cream targeted to sensitive and dry skin – particularly excited me.
Launched in 2006, the ultra facial cream is a no-frills skincare staple that hydrates, nourishes and smooths skin. Its recognisable white tub is just as simple as the formula itself, which uses three main ingredients that are naturally derived and skin-friendly. There’s squalane, a botanical lipid to smooth and soften, glacial glycoprotein, to strengthen the natural moisture barrier, and pro-ceramides, lipids that help support the barrier. Plus, ingredients like salicylic acid help with acne or uneven texture.
The new Kiehl's recovery cream expands the ultra facial franchise. I've been testing it for around a month, introducing it into my regimen at a time when my skin was feeling most parched: in the depths of winter. I used the OG ultra facial throughout my teen years and on and off in my 20s. It's a reliable fix for dull and dry skin, but my skin can be extra sensitive and prone to rosacea and redness – particularly around my nose, chin and t-zone. I also have post-acne pigmentation and sun damage.
Read more: Best moisturisers for sensitive skin, tried and tested
I wanted to see if the new recovery cream could give my skin some extra TLC during the winter months. The goal? Brighter, radiant and even skin by spring. Read on to see if it delivered.
How I tested
I swapped out my usual nightly moisturiser for the new Kiehl’s ultra facial meltdown recovery cream. As usual, I cleansed before applying retinal serum and eye cream ahead of the moisturiser. I considered everything from application and texture to the long-term benefits of using the cream. Plus, I assessed whether it offers good value for money.
Kiehl's ultra facial recovery meltdown cream
Key ingredients: Colloidal oatmeal, provitamin B5, α-Bisabolol
Sizes available: 28ml, 50ml
Why we love it
- Good for sensitive skin
- Long-term benefits
- Soothes redness
- Long-lasting tub
Take note
- Expensive
- Some might find it too rich
Both the Kiehl's recovery cream and OG formula share many of the same hydrating and nourishing ingredients (think glycerin, squalane and zinc gluconate). However, the latest ultra facial has some powerful new ingredients: colloidal oatmeal, dexpanthenol (vitamin B5) and a-bisabolol. While the original cream focused on hydration, the new meltdown formula adds soothing, barrier-supporting ingredients for sensitive skin.
The cream comes in the familiar, simple, fuss-free tub – this time in a striking red that nods to its SOS formula. I love that you don’t have to faff with any squeezing or pumping when applying the formula.
A little goes a long way, too – I find that one generous scoop can give full coverage, helping to justify the price (£28 for 50ml and £41 for 100ml). I’ve been using it for a month, and I've barely scratched the surface of the tub.
The consistency is rich but lightweight, so I prefer using it nightly before bed so that it can really sink in. It’s got a non-greasy finish, so you can easily apply it in the morning, too. The formula spreads effortlessly across skin, drying quickly and sitting nicely over the rest of my skincare regime. Just like the original, the cream has an unclaggy texture.
Though unscented, the meltdown formula has a comforting medicinal whiff that evokes apothecaries. It’s the perfect tonic after a long day wearing make-up – the kind of cream that makes you look forward to applying your evening skincare. Instantly soothing and calming, skin looks plump and nourished the next morning.
After testing it for over a month, tightness, redness and dryness are all noticeably calmed. The water-based formula is a dream for sensitive skin, but those with particularly dry skin might require something a little more industrial and heavy.
Buy now £28, Kiehls.co.uk
Is the Kiehl’s ultra facial recovery meltdown cream worth it?
If you love the original Kiehl’s ultra facial cream but your skin is craving something more soothing, the ultra facial recovery meltdown cream is a thoughtful evolution rather than a full reinvention. Building upon the reliable hydrating OG, the new cream elevates it with new barrier-supporting ingredients to soothe sensitive skin. Rich but lightweight, skin feels softened and nourished after use. Continued application reduced my redness, tightness and dryness – exactly what you’d hope for from an SOS-leaning moisturiser, particularly coming out of the winter months.
Why you can trust IndyBest reviews
Daisy Lester is a senior shopping writer, having reviewed beauty for IndyBest for years. Whether writing guides to the best gradual tans, lip liners or eyelash curlers, she applies the same thorough testing process to bring readers the best recommendations. When it comes to skincare, she looks to ingredients that are kind to skin and brands that you can really trust.
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