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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Damien Gabet

‘A muddy ride into Romania’s dreamy countryside’: cycling the Via Transilvanica

A cyclist coming down a track between grassy banks, with old buildings with pointy roofs behind
Cycling on the Via Transilvanica. Photograph: Aurelian Gabriel Teleptean/Alamy

It was about seven minutes into my cycle ride that the first signs of addiction became apparent. My ebike’s “power assist” button felt more like a morphine clicker as we climbed the misty hills of Bucovina in northern Romania. Sergiu, my group’s guide, knew what I was up to. “Be honest with yourself – only use ‘turbo’ if you have to!” he shouted. My thumb cowered under the handlebar.

On previous adventures I’ve resisted assistance, maintaining that battery power is the preserve of the unserious. Nowadays, though, my pins aren’t as powerful, and on these vertiginous hills the extra oomph was near essential. But as with all drugs, moderation is key. After all, one wouldn’t want to run out of juice on hills that are home to wolves, bears and lynx.

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