‘A mirage at the top of a hill’: food, drink and adventure in Spain’s Vejer de la Frontera

The streets in Vejer- a Spanish Pueblo blanco. Photograph: Nazia Parveen/The Guardian

Just above the horizon, wild horses gallop around a white domed building while, within petting distance, a small donkey munches on wild poppies and purple periwinkle. We are pausing to take in the view, before we cycle back after a day of hiking and swimming surrounded by forests of pine trees on the Andalucían coast.