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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Translated by Sam Jones

A local’s guide to Jaén, Spain: sunsets and sundowners in Andalucía

Jaén Spain
Jaén’s cathedral.
Jaén’s cathedral, completed in 1724, replaced a 13th-century church which in turn replaced a mosque. Illustration: Hennie Haworth/The Guardian

Food

Jaén is one of the few cities in Spain where your tapa is included in the price of your drink – and if you want to eat well here, head to a tavern. My favourite is El Abuelo, which has amazing tapas: it is famous for delicious patatas alioli and alpargatas de tomate con bacon (toasted bread with tomato and bacon). Also good are La Manchega, founded in 1886 and the oldest bar in Jaén, Casa Gorrión, which has a mummified leg of ham dating from 1918 on display, and also La Barra and El Santo.

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