A local’s guide to Chamonix, France: great hikes, the Alps and decent sushi

Buvette du Chapeau is a mountain cafe serving traditional alpine dishes. Illustration: Hennie Haworth/The Guardian

Food

Cool Cats in the Rue de Moulins is where I go for an early dinner with my kids, and it’s best in the summer when you can sit outside. But as it does artisan hot dogs with extras including jalapeños and cheese, and street food such as nachos, it can also be good when you’re coming off the mountain in winter.