The real giveaway at a fashion show is not the clothes you see on the catwalk but the celebrities in the audience, hoping to get a sneak preview of what they can wear to the Oscars. So what was Idris Elba, known for his slick suits and brogues, doing at a Gucci menswear show in Milan, best known for its babydoll dresses and pearls?
As the lights went up, this became clear. Out walked a model in wide-legged suit trousers, a tight white T-shirt and a tiny beanie. There was no costume jewellery, no pussy-bow blouses, and no Harry Styles in the front row. Instead: bomber jackets, oversized blazers and gilets, and the return of the deep V white T-shirt.