Okinawa is Japan’s southernmost prefecture and is made up of a chain of over 160 islands located in the East China Sea between Taiwan and Japan’s mainland.
Sometimes called the “Hawaii of Japan”, the tropical islands are known for beaches, a year-round warm climate, large coral reefs, excellent diving and snorkelling, national parks, and a laid-back atmosphere that sets it apart from mainland Japan.
A quick flight from almost any major city in Japan, Okinawa is hugely popular with domestic tourists, but it usually escapes the attention of international visitors. If you’re planning a trip to Japan, it’s well worth thinking about including a few days in Okinawa – it’s an opportunity to experience a different side of Japan and to spend a few relaxing days outside of the big frantic cities.
One large island called Okinawa dominates the region in terms of size, population, and tourism, and is the best starting point for a first-time visitor, but the smaller islands do offer a greater feeling of escapism. A group of islands in the far south called the Yaeyama Islands, which includes Taketomi and Ishigaki, are particularly worth the extra effort – three nights on the main island and two on one of these smaller islands would make for an ideal introductory itinerary to Okinawa.
What to do
Scenic Drives
Most Okinawa trips will begin with landing at Naha, the capital of the main island. It’s a good idea to hire a car here as it’s the best way to explore and escape the more built-up areas in the south (Naha itself is a bit gritty so it’s best to stay further north). Driving is very easy as the roads are calm and cars are right-hand drive, the same as in the UK – just make sure that you get an International Driving Permit before you leave. As well as being best on a practical level, driving around Okinawa is a pleasure, particularly in the far north where the road hugs the scenic coastline, passing through small villages, and reaching remote deserted beaches.
Hiking in Yanbaru National Park
Much of the northern half of Okinawa Island is dominated by Yanbaru National Park, which has great hiking trails to explore. Some involve steep and strenuous mountain climbs, but there are gentler trails too, such as the Hiji Falls route, which takes you along a river up to a waterfall, and the Kunigami Forest Park loop.
Beaches
Okinawa has many beautiful-looking beaches but be warned that swimming can be tricky at many of them during low tide when the water is shallow and the likelihood of scraping your skin on sharp coral is high. One of the better swimming beaches is Mission Beach, located about halfway up the west coast, with clear clam water and pristine white sand tucked into a small cove. You’ll have to pay a fee to use the beach but it’s worth it.
Further up the coast, there’s Sesoko Beach on Sesoko Island (linked to the main island by a road bridge) which is much bigger and features a long stretch of white sand. There’s an official part of the beach with lifeguards and a marked swimming zone, but head to the left and keep walking and you’ll have your own private area away from the crowds.
Tobaru is another large, but much quieter beach that’s a great stop-off when driving the coastal road – it benefits from being well away from the road so you can relax away from the traffic noise.
To really get away from it all, head to Oku Beach on the far north of the island, which has stunning scenery and hardly any visitors.
Snorkelling, Diving and Whale-Watching
The coral reefs and clear waters that surround many of Okinawa’s islands make it a top spot for snorkelling and diving. Ishigaki is a particularly good island to visit for diving but there are organised day tours over the region that will take you to remote spots where you might be able to spot manta rays, turtles, hammerhead sharks, and lots of colourful tropical fish. If you prefer to stay above water, whale-watching trips are also available between January and March when humpback whales are migrating.
Food and Drink
Okinawa is known as one of the world’s ‘Blue Zones’, owing to the high proportion of residents living healthily until very old age (often over 100). This is attributed to everything from the water to an active lifestyle and the diet which is largely based on local vegetables, fruit, and fish.
Ogimi village is a particular blue zone hotspot on the island – visit Emi no Mise for lunch to sample their life-extending local cuisine.
A must-visit is the tiny 100-year-old noodle shop, Kishimoto Shokudo, (a convenient lunch stop after a morning on Sesoko beach) which specialises in Okinawa soba noodles – thick, hand-cut wheat noodles in a clear broth topped with juicy, almost sweet slices of pork.
Hitsumabushi Wadahei specialises in unagi (freshwater eel), which is grilled over charcoal and served on rice with lashings of unagi sauce. Crisp, ice-cold beers and tonkatsu (thick pork chops covered in breadcrumbs and deep fried) are the speciality of the laid-back KamataTomizen – probably the antithesis of the blue zone diet but absolutely delicious all the same.
Where to stay
HOSHINOYA Okinawa
Undoubtedly the smartest most luxurious hotel on the island, HOSHINOYA Okinawa has an incredible setting on a quiet stretch of rocky coast near Yomitan village. 100 modern guest villas are spread out along the coastline, jutting right up to the sea in many instances, with views that look out over the bright coral-rich waters. Inside, the villas offer supremely comfortable digs, including a large living area, a sunken floor traditional Japanese dining table, fridge and cooking facilities, large futon-style beds and, best of all, uninterrupted views of the beautiful blue sea. At the back, the villas are connected by lovely landscaped gardens that are walled in by a long concrete wall modelled on traditional Japanese fortresses – gusuku castles – that used to be dotted all over the island. Facilities include a heated infinity pool, an activity studio with regular events such as karate demos, and a smart restaurant serving unique tasting menus that take inspiration from both Okinawa and Sicily.
Rates start from 136,000 JPY / £785 per room per night (room only); hoshinoya.com/okinawa
Halekulani
Many of the hotels in Okinawa are large resorts with hundreds of rooms, which can vary in quality. The best of the bunch in this category is the relatively new Halekulani, which opened in 2021 and is the sister property to a hotel of the same name in Hawaii. It’s a huge, sprawling place but still properly luxurious with multiple restaurants, five swimming pools, and bright, spacious rooms with balconies that look out to sea. There’s also a private beach and an excellent spa offering massages and traditional onsen hot baths to unwind in. The pick of the dining options has to be the intimate Japanese restaurant, Aomi, which serves fresh sushi and traditional dishes using local Okinawa produce. Halekulani is an excellent choice for both families and older travellers, who can opt to stay in the more relaxed Sunset Wing, or even in one of the villas which feature private pools.
Rooms from 77,166 JPY / £420 per night with breakfast for two; okinawa.halekulani.com
HOSHINOYA Taketomi Island
The tiny Taketomi Island only has around 300 residents and is worth visiting to get a glimpse of traditional Okinawan life, which the islanders are fighting hard to preserve. You can easily visit on a day trip if you’re staying on the larger Ishigaki island next door, but nothing beats a couple of nights at the HOSHINOYA hotel here.
On a quiet patch on the east side of the island, the hotel is laid out exactly like one of the traditional Taketomi villages with guest villas arranged along narrow sandy streets. Each of the 48 villas is a single-story wooden building with Ryukyu red-tiled rooves and each one is guarded by different shisa figures (guardian lions of Okinawa believed to protect houses against evil). Inside the rooms, there’s a mix of traditional Japanese features such as sliding paper screen doors and futon beds, together with modern luxurious flourishes such as a plush freestanding bathtub.
Around the hotel, there’s a huge elliptical outdoor heated pool, a spa, and a restaurant serving a blend of French and Okinawan cuisines. You can also opt for excellent room service meals, with both Japanese and Western options.
