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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Phil Hoad

A Dairy Story review – giving cows and calves a happier life through progressive farming

A cow licking its calf under the chin
Mum’s the word… at Rainton Farm calves stay with their mothers for five or six months. Photograph: A Dairy Story.

A new addition to the ranks of neo-rural cinema that is getting its hands dirty with the realities of the modern countryside, this mellow Scottish documentary lauds the emerging practice of cow-and-calf farming. It focuses on Rainton Farm in Dumfries and Galloway where, instead of the dairy-industry norm of separating calves from their mothers a few hours after birth, owners David and Wilma Finlay allow them to stay together until the youngsters are five or six months old. Having run a fully fledged organic operation since the 1990s, the Finlays have progressive form; Rainton is thought to be the first European site where cow-and-calf has been attempted at commercial scale.

This shakeup breaks dairy-farming orthodoxy, which refuses to waste lucrative milk on calves. Not only are neighbouring farmers sceptical, the cows initially are too: in the 2012 pilot, the animals were stressed out by the sudden change of routine when they were confronted with needy offspring that they had expected to disappear. Milk yields dropped, but rebounded to a 25% increase in subsequent trials, as the mums settled down and extra suckling stimulated production. An even greater revelation are the damaging routines imposed on dairy farmers by old-style methods: a stressed-out factory milking schedule that, ringfenced by intensive veterinary and crop fertilisation, has ecological repercussions in the fields.

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