California's Napa Valley is renowned for its wines, with oenophiles from around the world making pilgrimages to the region to see where some of the very best Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots and Chardonnays are made.
But what if you don’t like wine — or don’t drink at all?
As we reveal here, Napa Valley is still a hugely rewarding destination, with plenty to offer for those who aren’t interested in swirling and spitting wines.
There is a luxury train trip that will take you back to the golden age of rail travel, a paved cycle trail that winds past bucolic scenery, and hikes through redwood groves and along creeks.
The region also has several geothermal spas (and a spectacular geyser), top-notch restaurants, thrilling hot-air balloon rides and a plethora of boutique shops, art galleries and beautiful gardens.
And if it’s just wine, rather than alcohol itself, that's the issue, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the vibrant craft beer scene.
1. Cycle the Napa Valley Vine Trail
The Napa Valley Vine Trail is one of California’s most rewarding cycling routes, with around 33 miles of paved trail open across three sections. These run from the Ferry Terminal in historic Vallejo at the southern end to American Canyon’s Newell preserve; the City of Napa to Yountville; and St Helena to Calistoga, at the northern end.
Once the missing link between Yountville and St Helena is completed, the trail will stretch to 46 miles.
One of the most scenic sections is between Napa and Yountville. Rent a bike from Napa Valley Bike Tours or Getaway Adventures and head north, pedalling alongside the wetlands of the Napa River and past the oak-tree-framed vineyards of the Oak Knoll District, with the Mayacamas Mountains completing the picture.
In Yountville, refueling options before the return ride are plentiful. Try Bouchon Bakery, Mini Model Bakery or The Coop by Hoopes, all treasured pitstops for coffee, cake and pastries.
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2. Hike for views, not vineyards
Raise a glass (of your nominated non-wine beverage) to Napa Valley’s excellent hikes, which range from the mellow to the challenging.
An exploration of Skyline Wilderness Park is a good warm-up. It sits right above Napa, with rolling trails offering views over the city and, on clear days, all the way to San Pablo Bay.
Head for a brew at Ritual Coffee Roasters before tackling more dramatic terrain in Westwood Hills Park to the north. Here, half-day friendly trails take you along ridgelines that yield views of the valley floor and the Mayacamas Mountains.
Between St Helena and Calistoga is Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, which harbors easy to moderate trails that weave through redwood groves and along creeks, while Mount St Helena is where the thigh-burn really starts.
It’s a moderate to strenuous hike to reach the summit of this 4,343-foot-tall peak, but you’ll be handsomely rewarded with views of the Bay Area, the Pacific Ocean and, when it’s clear, the San Francisco skyline.
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3. Do Napa as a geothermal wellness retreat
At the northern tip of Napa Valley lies the city of Calistoga, which, thanks to the geothermal ground beneath, is an undisputed hotspot in the region.
The city’s Old Faithful Geyser (admission fee around $15), which shoots mineral-rich hot water 60 feet into the air every 15 to 30 minutes, is a spectacular reminder of the volcanic engine room below, where water is heated by hot magma at a depth of 4,000 feet before resurfacing at 230 degrees Fahrenheit.
This subterranean boiler system also powers several mineral springs and mud baths, all within walking distance of each other.
At the south end of Lincoln Avenue is Indian Springs Calistoga resort, where day passes for around $100 grant access to a range of spa amenities, including a huge Olympic-size mineral pool fed by volcanic springs.
Further along in central downtown is Calistoga Spa Hot Springs, where $120-$150 will buy you an invigorating mud bath package.
Around a mile south of downtown is boutique-y hotel Solage, which charges about $200 for a spa experience. Features include a relaxation pool with water at 98 degrees and salt and mineral pools with temperatures of 102-104 degrees.
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4. Hot air ballooning at sunrise
Even for non-wine drinkers, there’s no denying the beauty of Napa’s neatly arranged vineyards — and they look even more picturesque from above. A notion that a hot air balloon ride will confirm.
Once aloft, you’ll also gaze down upon orchards, rural estates and meandering rivers, with the Mayacamas Mountains framing the view to the west.
The balloons, operated by companies such as Napa Valley Balloons, Napa Valley Aloft, and Balloons Above the Valley, typically fly at altitudes ranging from hundreds to the low thousands of feet and last for up to 60 minutes, though allow three to four hours for checking in, inflation, and returning.
A popular launch point is the area around Yountville, with coffee, tea and pastries preceding the flight by convention.
Prices range from around $280 per person for group flights, to $1,000 and more for private experiences.
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5. Browse art and boutiques
With the tasting rooms and vineyards grabbing all the limelight, Napa Valley’s boutique shops and art galleries are often overlooked, but you’ll find them in and around all the main towns.
Starting at the bottom, there’s the di Rosa Center for Contemporary Art, just south of downtown Napa; and on First Street, Art Gallery Napa Valley sits amid enticing homeware stores and indie bookshops.
Further north in Yountville, there’s the Napa Valley Museum Yountville, the RH Yountville Gallery and boutique-lined sidewalks.
Head to St Helena for the Caldwell Snyder Gallery on Main Street, which showcases West Coast artists. In Calistoga, there are vintage shops, artisan stores and bijou galleries to explore along Lincoln Avenue.
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6. Ride the Napa Valley Wine Train — without the wine
Don’t be put off by the name. The Napa Valley Wine Train is surprisingly sober-friendly, and along with offering stunning views of Napa's tranquil backcountry, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the golden age of rail travel.
Passengers are seated in exquisitely maintained 100-year-old Pullman cars and can choose from various trips that begin in downtown Napa.
There are plenty of wine-tasting trips, but also a Peppermint Tea experience, which includes fine steeped seasonal teas, finger sandwiches and scones. There’s also a murder-mystery evening, where guests try to identify the killer during a three-course gourmet dinner. Ordering wine is not mandatory.
Trips on the Wine Train typically cost $150-$300.
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7. Explore gardens and historic estates
Take a trip back in history, to a time before the wine boom, with a visit to the Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park, a few miles north of St Helena.
Here, you can tour a central piece of life during the early development of the Napa Valley — a restored water-powered mill built in 1846 that ground grain for settlers.
From there, you can follow the 2.4 mile-long History Trail, which threads along a tranquil, forested canyon past Pioneer Cemetery, which contains the remains of several early Napa Valley pioneers, and the site of White Church, the first church in Napa Valley.
At Copia (Culinary Institute of America) in Napa, you can stroll around the beautiful 32-bed kitchen garden planted with flowers, herbs, vegetables and fruit and olive trees.
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8. Eat well (without a wine pairing)
The food is rarely a poor relation to the wine when eating out in Napa — there’s a smorgasbord of restaurants and markets offering top-tier delights.
In Napa, visit homey Oxbow Public Market for everything from fresh oysters to organic ice cream and gourmet coffee, and Morimoto Napa for superb sushi.
Nine miles north in Yountville, there’s French comfort food (think tomato soup en croute and duck and goat cheese rillettes) at Bistro Jeanty and potentially the very best cooking in the USA at three-Michelin-starred The French Laundry (where the sommeliers can deliver inventive non-alcoholic drinks).
Further north in St Helena is Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch, where the menus feature grass-fed beef raised on-site and estate-grown vegetables, while in Calistoga, Sam’s Social Club at Indian Springs Calistoga is open to the public and standing by to dish up breakfast, lunch, and dinner made with seasonal ingredients.
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9. Yes, there’s beer, too...
If you just don’t like wine, rather than alcohol altogether, and you’re in need of something stronger than coffee after all the cycling and hiking, then you’ll be pleased to hear that Napa Valley does do beer.
In downtown Napa on First Street, Fieldwork Brewing Company pours an ever-rotating menu of small-batch IPAs, and Napa Valley Brewing Company, which occupies the historic water tower on the patio of the riverfront Calistoga Inn, offers beer tasting flights and seasonal specialty beers.
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How to get there
Most visitors fly into San Francisco International Airport or Oakland International Airport, both around 60–75 miles south of Napa Valley. From either, the drive takes roughly one to 1.5 hours.
A slower, more scenic approach is by ferry from San Francisco to the Vallejo Ferry Terminal, then connecting by taxi or rideshare for the final 15–20 miles north into Napa town.
It worth noting that, to explore the valley from north to south, a car is very useful.
A great HQ for exploring
Archer Hotel Napa (rooms from around $400) is in downtown Napa, which puts you within easy reach of Oxbow Public Market and the Wine Train station. Plus, there are stunning views from it's rooftop bar.
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