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Los Angeles Times
Los Angeles Times
Travel
Julia Carmel

34 hours on America's most scenic train. Is it as dreamy as it sounds?

There are certainly more efficient ways to get from Los Angeles to Seattle than sitting in a metal box for 34 hours. But Amtrak's Coast Starlight train wasn't designed for people who are in a rush.

Perhaps you've come across this train on Instagram, YouTube or TikTok, where people rave about its gorgeous observation cars — called "sightseer lounges" — boasting floor-to-ceiling windows and cinematic views of the Oregonian forest. ("10/10 would recommend the Coast Starlight for the views alone," one TikTok creator noted, showing off the flowers they drew while gazing at the scenery.)

But much of the viral footage of the train — which leaves L.A. every day around 10 a.m. and gets to Seattle the following night around 8 p.m. — was taken by travelers who were riding it for a short stretch, or those staying in the sleeper cars, which have beds, private bathrooms with showers and access to the restaurant-style dining car. These "roommettes" and bedrooms, which can run upward of $600, are far less economical than the $100 coach seats that can be booked if you plan far enough in advance. I wanted to find out if I could really romanticize sleeping in an awkwardly reclined chair and eating countless bags of chips.

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