Philip Banks
(Picture: AGR)Last weekend, the sun shone on the upcoming designers taking part in London Fashion Week.
In the June slot once home to the London Fashion Week Mens shows, a diminished and gender neutral selection of brands presented their Spring 2023 collections.
In was scaled back, without the usual frenzy associated with fashion week (it did not attract an international fashion set), and that came with a clear benefit to those who decided to show.
With only seven runway shows on the schedule, a far cry from the heavily populated February and September fashion weeks which have 90 or more physical activations, everyone had a chance to stand out.
There was no requirement to make these shows for men ( LFW went genderless during the pandemic), but as it happened they were predominantly for the boys – and the summer wardrobe takeaway was light, linen tailoring for summers in the city, and a punchy shade vest for beach.
Here are the three names to note:
Carlota Barrera
Kicking off proceedings early Saturday afternoon Carlota Barrera, the Spanish designer who makes minimalist menswear with a feminine touch, hosted a show under bridge in a Notting Hill skate park .
For her first physical LFW catwalk, a Cuban inspired stream of washed out blues, greens and yellows made up a collection of relaxed tailoring with subtle twists.
Black tie tropes were inverted with fabrication, as dress shirts came in slouchy linens, and deconstructed waistcoats had peaked labels, block prints and knotted tie-up backs. For summer, Barrera’s boys are set to stay loose, light and grounded with their smart, polished loafers.
As music blasted, trains rushed past and members of the public peered through the park’s metal fence, the tranquil, island inspired garments were put bang in the urban centre. And ultimately, they made sense in the city.
AGR
The South London born knitwear brand, which started with zingy shade knitwear in 2018, used their LFW debut to show off a broadening range.
The show was hosted at Fabric nightclub, Farringdon, where clothes came imbued with the party spirt you would expect. Titled ‘Dripping in Colour’, the mixed gender show was drenched in pop rainbow shades, splashed across tight fit knit body suits, mini dresses, and knee high socks.
Founder Alicia Robinson’s men’s summer staple was vivid striped vests in sunset orange, bright blues and shots of pink. The best were worn asymmetrical and paired with shell suit tracksuit bottoms or cargo trousers with bulky logo belts.
Sliced, patchwork denim jackets and trousers proved the label has more than knitwear in its sights. Nonetheless, it was the cable knit, wool jumpers which came in saturated blues, oranges and pinks that proved it is still the category AGR does best.
Robyn Lynch
To the beach! For her second physical LFW show, Dublin born Robyn Lynch made a collection inspired by one Mallorca tourist tee picked up by her mother in 1983. The result was a chilled out, seaside style.
Semi-transparent nylon short shorts were worn with comfy, oversized hoodies. There were charming knitted, button-up co-ord short sleeve shirts and shorts, and technical edges in the zipper sports jackets with toggles and tracksuits. Her one rule was clear: go monochromatic for summer, as the looks moved from all red, through greys and rounded off in electric yellow.
Models, who power walked down the runway at the Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, were shoed in Crocs – a sponsorship which at times distracted from the garments. But Lynch brought humour (t-shirts read ‘I Got Crabs In Brighton’) and surprises, like a poncho-meets-¼ zip jumper, with restrictive, front facing cut outs for hands.
And Lynch’s go-to trick for lightening things up? Beaded necklaces, spelling out the brand name and punctuated with smile faces. Her ironic plastic jewellery is not in stores yet – best get to making your own at home.
