Calling all beady-eyed drinks swots: if you’ve read our round-up of the best brandy to buy, you’ll know that Cognac is a variety of the sweet spirit produced by distilling wine before ageing it in barrels.
The category includes Armagnac, made from grapes in its namesake region like Cognac; brandy de Jérez, sourced from Sherry in Spain; Calvados, an apple brandy distilled in Normandy; and light, unaged and fruity eaux-de-vie.
But whether enjoyed neat in a swifter glass or mixed and muddled into a cocktail - think brandy Alexanders, sidecars, original sazeracs - Cognac is undisputedly the star of the show.
What is Cognac?
Indeed, it’s long been coveted by kings and rappers alike for its complex flavour profile, balancing sweetness, fruit and spice. It’s made from high-acid, low-alcohol ugni blanc grapes that are fermented, twice-distilled, and then matured in oak barrels before blending and bottling.
But how to pick from one of the most diverse and versatile drinks out there? Yes, there are the high-rollers – Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Martell and Courvoisier – but there are more than 300 makers, many of them small and family-run, producing some truly cracking stuff.
The biggest deciding factor for the uninitiated is how long a Cognac has spent ageing in oak casks. Look for ‘VS’ – meaning ‘very special’ and signifying a minimum ageing of two years – ‘VSOP’ – standing for ‘very superior old pale’ that has been aged for four years – ‘XO’ – translating to ‘extra old’ and aged for 10 years or long – and ‘vintage’, a blend that uses only a single (and specific) harvest. In terms of taste, younger Cognacs are lighter, brighter and livelier; and older varieties are richer, warmer and more complex. Certainly, they shouldn’t just be enjoyed at Christmas, but year-round – especially the more mellow ones.
The expert view
Richard Woodard, freelance drinks writer and wine and spirits expert at The Whisky World, says: “One of the fascinations of Cognac is its sheer diversity. It’s a big region – vineyards stretch from around La Rochelle in the northwest down to the Dordogne in the southeast – so there’s great variation in climate and soil types. That means lots of contrasting styles and flavours in the spirits, or eaux-de-vie, sourced from different areas.
Many of the finest Cognacs come from Grande Champagne, a small zone just south of the Charente River with chalky, sponge-like soils. Here the spirit can happily age for decades in oak before reaching its full potential.
But most Cognacs are blends – combinations of spirits from different places and of different ages – created by the chef de cave or cellarmaster. It’s worth getting to know the different Cognac houses, because each has its own liquid personality. Some make Cognacs that are rich and oaky, while others go for a more delicate and elegant style. Finding the one you like best is one of the joys of discovering Cognac.”
Here, we’ve rounded-up the best cognacs to swirl, sniff and sip your way through, covering all discerning tastes and price tags. Bling it on.
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Courvoisier XO Royal Cognac
Courvoisier XO Royal Cognac is a bottle to behold, paying tribute to the historic expressions once enjoyed in the royal courts of Europe (Napoleon himself was a fan). Floral notes, hints of truffle and flavours of hazelnuts, honey and cinnamon make this a regal treat. Bow down to its greatness.
Buy now £315.00, Selfridges
Hennessy X.O Cognac
Display this iconic bottle pride of place on your bar. Dashing good looks aside, eaux-de-vie have been aged in young barrels to create an extra-old and robust Cognac that’s deep and round, complete with flavours of candied fruit and dark chocolate with a spicy edge.
Buy now £192.00, Selfridges
Hine Rare VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac
Blending more than 25 Grande and Petite Champagne Cognacs – the youngest of which has been aged for over four years – this bottle delivers a delicate drink that’s fruity and floral on the nose and mellow and smooth on the palate. Simply sublime.
Buy now £79.99, Selfridges
Martell XO Cognac
Presented in a beautiful decanter that displays its golden, coppery hues, this XO Cognac from Martell demonstrates a mastery of blending from the heritage producer. Rich but elegant, it’s bursting with fragrant aromas of gingerbread, brioche and apples, while cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper and oak dance on the palate. Full of spicy, fiery character.
Buy now £185.00, The Whisky Exchange
Louis Royer VSOP Cognac
Notes of raisins, peach and vanilla combine in this well-balanced, complex and smooth Cognac from Louis Royer, a prestigious maker founded in 1853. It’s hardly surprising that it’s bagged an armful of awards.
Buy now £48.36, Amazon
Maxime Trijol Cognac Grande Champagne
Shaking off the stuffy image of gents in suits, the sixth-generation, female-owned production house of Maxime Trijol is run by sisters – the master distiller and cellar master, no less – and has created this beauty: a delicate and elegant Cognac aged between 10-40 years with notes of orange rind, honey and spice. A sip with a story to tell.
Buy now £65.00, Master of Malt
Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Brandy
Every connoisseur of Cognac needs this in their collection: Courvoisier VSOP. With light floral aromas and stone fruit flavours, it’s the perfect example of a summer Cognac, rounded-off with a smooth and velvety finish.
Buy now £43.00, Ocado
Co-op Irresistible VSOP Cognac
A minimum of four years ageing in French oak barrels has created this Cognac – part of Co-op’s premium Irresistible range – with a smooth and rich profile that sings of caramel and baked apple flavours.
Buy now £18.00, Co-op
Ferrand 10 Générations Cognac
The clues in the name with this one: since 1630, 10 generations of the Ferrand family have passed knowledge down its business, resulting in a bottle that pays homage to hard work, skill and unrivalled mastery. Round and opulent, expect notes of pepper, white flowers and nutmeg, together with flavours of baked pear, honey and spice cake. The striking bottle – incorporating the faces of family ancestors – is award-winning.
Buy now £50.00, Harvey Nichols
Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal Cognac
Don’t be deceived the rather regal appearance of this Rémy Martin: inside are smooth, mellow and well-balanced flavours that makes for seriously easy-drinking. Aromas of plum and fig with notes of toffee and toast round out a truly brilliant buy.
Buy now £51.99, Amazon
Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge Cognac & Orange Liqueur
The purists out there may sniff, but let them, because Grand Marnier’s winning combination of Cognac and exotic, bitter oranges has created a classic for the bar that can be enjoyed by itself or in a raft of cocktails. Full, ample flavours, orange aromas and notes of hazelnut and toffee courtesy of the Cognac.
Buy now £20.25, Sainsbury’s
